Skin care

ANTI-AGEING INNOVATIONS SPECIAL EDITION

Cell-based skin care: Avant plans to commercialise anti-ageing multifunctional protein ingredient by 2022

14-Jan-2021 By Guan Yu Lim

Hong Kong-based cultivated meat biotechnology start-up Avant has developed a multifunctional protein ingredient from its cell cultivation technology, hoping to commercialise it for cosmetics use by early 2022.

STATE OF THE INDUSTRY PART I: REFLECTING ON WHAT’S TO COME IN 2021

Cosmetics Europe chief: Industry will fight to be recognised as ‘essential’

13-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

The cosmetics and personal care industry must continue its fight to get products recognised as essential to consumer lives in the coming year given ‘essentiality’ governs so many strategies set to be rolled out under the European Green Deal, says the...

Unilever brings in Jason Goldberger as CEO of Dollar Shave Club

13-Jan-2021 By Deanna Utroske

On Monday, the consumer goods company announced Goldberger as the new CEO of the popular men’s grooming and lifestyle brand.

‘Significant interest’: Venture capital major Seventure Partners extends €200m+ microbiome fund

13-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

European life sciences investment firm Seventure Partners has extended the final close of its second microbiome innovation fund and increased focus on advances in the skin microbiome space.

Special edition: Holistic Health & Wellness – Formulating for Wellbeing and Anti-Ageing

'Twilight beauty' rituals to soar amid ‘major concern’ for wellness: WGSN

12-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

Post-pandemic consumers are concerned about health, immunity and wider wellness which will translate into an uptick in beauty products that offer mindful and relaxing rituals to bookend days, says the director of beauty at WGSN.

ASA tells Unilever, your baby wash product does not nourish the skin microbiome

12-Jan-2021 By Will Chu

Unilever’s Baby Dove wash and lotion has fallen foul of guidelines set by the UK’s ad watchdog, which ruled the product does not benefit the skin microbiome, unless proof can be presented.

Special edition: Holistic Health & Wellness – Formulating for wellbeing and anti-ageing

Routines and data: German skin tech startup System Akvile wants to carve out change in the acne-prone market

11-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

System Akvile has developed a set of face care products and app for daily use on acne-prone skin – a system its founder says is a preventative and holistic alternative to ‘miracle’ claiming products.

Cruelty-free cosmetics: China’s animal alternative methods have room for improvement

11-Jan-2021 By Guan Yu Lim

China’s alternative methods for animal testing can be further improved and standardised, according to a leading expert in the country.

Aveda goes 100% vegan, removing all bee-derived ingredients from formulations

08-Jan-2021 By Deanna Utroske

This month the Estée Lauder Companies brand announced having delivered on its commitment to have all-vegan products “on shelves” by January 2021.

Garnier global brand president: ‘2020 was a wakeup call to protect our planet’

08-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

Sustainable living and environmental actions are top of the agenda for consumers across the globe in 2021, proving the importance of green beauty offerings, says L’Oréal’s Garnier president.

Prestige beauty in UK, France and Germany shows ‘signs of recovery’, says NPD Group

07-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

Luxury cosmetic and fragrance markets in the UK, France and Germany have all shown signs of recovery thanks to growth in e-commerce, particularly in prestige perfumes and skin care, finds The NPD Group.

Cosmetic ingredient safety: SCCS closes comment period on endocrine disruptor and nano toxicity prelim opinions

07-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

The comment period on four preliminary safety opinions from the European Commission’s Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) addressing endocrine disruption and nano toxicity concerns has now closed.

In conversation with the CTPA and British Beauty Council

UK beauty needs ‘timely and tailored’ government support to survive latest lockdowns

06-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

Specific financial support from government will be critical if UK cosmetic and personal care businesses are to survive the latest nationwide lockdowns, say trade association heads.

Special Edition: Holistic Health & Wellness - Formulating for wellbeing and anti-ageing

Blue light protection ingredients and claim substantiation to soar: Review

06-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

Cosmetic ingredient launches for blue light protection will continue to surge as industry learns more about the mechanism of damage occurring in the skin and testing methods to verify claims evolve, finds a review.

Slick approach: Down Under Enterprises’ seeks cosmetics success with Eucalyptus leaf oil ingredient

06-Jan-2021 By Guan Yu Lim

Australia’s Down Under Enterprises is seeking success with its Eucalyptus kochii oil in the cosmetics space after it was established as an ingredient by The Personal Care Products Council.

Cost hurdles remain for organic cosmetics in Middle East despite ‘high level’ of awareness: Study

05-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

Female consumers in Saudi Arabia are highly aware of organic cosmetics and the environmental implications of these products, but price remains a factor impeding use among many, a study finds.

Puig eyes €3bn in sales for 2023 after carving out Derma division

04-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

Spanish luxury beauty and perfume major Puig has carved its business into three divisions, creating a new Derma unit as part of plans to re-spark growth following a tough 2020 disrupted by COVID-19.

Beauty Bites Gallery

Top 5 most-read stories December 2020: Trendspotting, animal testing and microbiota innovation

04-Jan-2021 By Kacey Culliney

A round-up of CosmeticsDesign-Europe’s most-read news from December 2020 shows interest in trend predictions and reflections, industry noise on EU animal testing regulations and microbiota-targeted innovation from Unilever.

Expert approach: A DrBrand exploring North America and Europe markets with doctor-led skin care range

04-Jan-2021 By Guan Yu Lim

Singapore skin care firm A DrBrand is looking to enter North America in 2021, and hoping to expand its presence in Europe, with its doctor-led products.

Power of root: Clariant unveils sustainable formulations made from plant root extracts

04-Jan-2021 By Guan Yu Lim

Clariant Active Ingredients has unveiled a face serum, skin oil and hand mask formulation derived from plant roots that were sustainably sourced.

Skin microbiome spotlight 2020: Inside-out beauty, live probiotics, and fresh innovation

24-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

Knowledge and interest in the skin microbiome continued to gain ground in 2020, buoyed by renewed awareness about holistic health amidst the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. Here, CosmeticsDesign-Europe highlights the areas experts in the field are looking...

Patents of 2020: Beauty majors target skin microbiome, personalisation and naturals

23-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

There was a raft of patent filings this year from industry’s biggest beauty companies, including Unilever, L’Oréal, Beiersdorf and Colgate-Palmolive. Here, CosmeticsDesign-Europe rounds up our coverage of this year’s patent-worthy innovations.

A year of renewal? Top 5 EMEA beauty trends to watch in 2021

22-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

Curiosity for digital, a need for inclusivity and heightened demand for green beauty are just some of the key trends set to shape the European, Middle East & African beauty market next year – here are our Top 5 EMEA trends to watch.

Trend reflections: 9 ways COVID-19 changed beauty consumption in 2020

22-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

The ongoing coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic has mightily impacted consumer behaviour, with many upcoming beauty trends fast-forwarded and new purchase and usage patterns appearing. Here, CosmeticsDesign-Europe brings you the nine ways beauty consumption...

Cosmetics contamination: Products manufactured in India, Middle East and US have highest levels of microbial contamination

22-Dec-2020 By Guan Yu Lim

Cosmetics manufactured in India, Middle East and US are the most susceptible to contamination by aerobic mesophilic bacteria, yeast and moulds, according to new research.

Beauty can thrive post-Brexit given ‘huge appetite’ for digital, says e-commerce exec

21-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

UK and EU beauty brands and retailers will certainly face new challenges in a post-Brexit world, but there remain plenty of opportunities to flourish with the right strategy and focus, particularly online, says an executive at e-commerce specialist Global-e.

Non-compliance on fragrance allergens in EU ‘far from satisfactory’

18-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

The level of non-compliance in Europe on required fragrance allergen labelling and declarations in beauty products is unsatisfactory and must change given the serious consumer health implications, says the Council of Europe’s European Directorate for...

COVID-19 skin treatments ‘little explored’, say Italian dermatologists

18-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

COVID-19 skin manifestations can vary greatly from serious and painful lesions to uncomfortable rashes, but treatments so far have been lacking and warrant consensus protocols to ensure best targeted approaches are taken, concludes a Dermatology review.

12-MINUTE WATCH: TRENDS 2021 BY COSMETICSDESIGN EDITORS

15 global beauty trends to watch in 2021: From CosmeticsDesign’s Editors

16-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

Multicultural beauty, sophisticated hygiene and green products for all will take the spotlight next year, as consumers turn to relatable and engaging concepts that fulfil their needs. CosmeticsDesign’s global editors take you through the top 15 global...

Listen to Beauty 4.0 – A Podcast by CosmeticsDesign-Europe

Reflecting on beauty in 2020: CTPA chief talks COVID-19, Brexit and The European Green Deal

16-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

The beauty industry has faced a challenging year, shaped by the ongoing COVID-19 crisis, regulatory changes under Brexit and incoming sustainability legislation at EU level. But industry has learned so much and remains innovative and driven in its approach...

L’Oréal invests in social-selling software to increase ecomm revenue above 25%

16-Dec-2020 By Deanna Utroske

This month, the multinational beauty maker’s venture capital fund announced a minority investment in Replika Software, a tool that lets brands create a ‘retail partnership’ with any individual active on social or streaming platforms.

Thyme and pine: Unilever files patent on microbiota balancing formula with natural actives

15-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

Personal care major Unilever has developed a topical composition using natural monoterpenoids from thyme and pine that it says can balance and restore microbiota diversity of the skin, particularly in amenable skin that presents conditions like...

Clean cosmeceutical pioneer: Biologi to focus on international expansion and education in 2021

15-Dec-2020 By Amanda Lim

Australia-based brand Biologi is aiming to spread its clean cosmeceuticals philosophy through overseas expansions and educational events.

‘Transparency and accountability’: Unilever seeks shareholder approval on 2030 climate goals

14-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

Personal care major Unilever wants to obtain a non-binding advisory vote on its climate transition action plan from shareholders – a move it says should deepen engagement and transparency on securing a more sustainable future.

Mintel: ‘Still opportunities’ for premium baby and toddler skin care despite COVID-19

14-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

UK parents are increasingly interested in clean beauty and concerned about ingredient safety in baby and toddler skin care products, creating opportunities to premiumize the category despite the ongoing COVID-19 crisis, says Mintel.

CBD beauty brand Kuida wants to ‘restart the market’ in Europe

14-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

Colombia-based CBD beauty brand Kuida wants to ramp up retail presence in Europe following its successful push into Spain but says a science-first strategy with consumer education will be needed.

ECHA: ‘Coordinated effort’ at policy level required for alternatives to replace animal testing in EU

09-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

A coordinated approach amongst European Union policy makers that considers research, method and validation is needed for non-animal alternative cosmetic testing to fully replace animal data, says the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA).

UNEP Emissions Gap Report 2020: ‘Green pandemic recovery’ needed to curb 3°C global temperature rise

09-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

Urgent action is needed to lower a global temperature rise in excess of 3°C by the end of this century, and United Nation leaders say COVID-19 recovery packages could offer a beacon of hope.

Mozzafiato: Italian Beauty has a new retail home in the US and Canada

09-Dec-2020 By Deanna Utroske

Building on the multi-brand specially beauty concept popularized by retailers large and small, like Sephora, Ulta, Credo, and Beauty Heroes, Mozzafiato is curating Italian Beauty brands for the US market and reaching consumers both online and in store....

L’Oréal, Kao Corporation and flurry of beauty suppliers secure 'Triple A’ CDP rating in 2020

08-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

International beauty major L’Oréal, Asia-Pacific personal care giant Kao Corporation and four industry suppliers have been awarded a triple ‘A’ status for sustainable efforts across climate change, forests and water security this year, securing six of...

Special edition: Baby & Toddler Skin care

GlobalData: 2020 parents ‘truly care about green themes’ when choosing baby and toddler skin care products

08-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

The ongoing COVID-19 pandemic has accelerated consumer demand for greener baby and toddler skin care, driving popularity of clean label, natural and organic, and vegan-certified products, says GlobalData.

Special Edition: Baby and Toddler Skin Care

'Reaching mums-to-be': Weleda to run global 2021 baby care campaign

08-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

Natural beauty specialist Weleda will kickstart a worldwide campaign to drive uptake of its top-selling calendula baby care range, targeting expectant mothers and new parents.

Indie Beauty Profile

Rajiv Chandra, Mum & You

08-Dec-2020 By Deanna Utroske

In his Indie Beauty Profile, Rajiv Chandra, CEO of Mum & You describes building a brand for both expecting and new mothers as well as for their young children. And he shares notes on the importance of having a team of employees that represents the...

Next stop China? CHAUL by Beiersdorf targets regional expansion for new K-beauty brand

08-Dec-2020 By Amanda Lim

Beiersdorf says it is hopeful of Asia-wide success for its new skin care brand, which was developed specifically to address ‘high beauty standards’ of South Korean consumers, with China a particular target.

Spanish beauty agency launches incubator: ‘It’s a super exciting moment to create new brands’

07-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

Digital marketing and communications agency The Beauty Makers has launched a brand incubator to help build out future innovation-led companies in an increasingly competitive but exciting space, its founding partner says.

Mask impact: Amorepacific research demonstrates how skin is affected by long-term use of protective face masks

07-Dec-2020 By Amanda Lim

Amorepacific has illustrated how wearing a protective face mask can adversely affect the skin – in what is believed to be a first-of-a-kind study on non-healthcare workers.

EC stands by ECHA rulings for animal data on cosmetic ingredients under REACH

04-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

The European Commission (EC) stands by its endorsement of calls made by the European Chemicals Agency’s (ECHA) Board of Appeal for animal data to verify worker safety of two cosmetic ingredients, despite a recent industry-signed open letter damning such...

The future of personalised beauty? Inclusivity, precision and sustainability, says L’Oréal tech chief

03-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

Personalised beauty must be inclusive and far-reaching, with tech that provides unrivalled precision, all whilst keeping sustainability front and centre, says the head of L’Oréal’s Technology Incubator.

Startup claims fermentation expertise will provide differentiator in production of rare cannabinoids

02-Dec-2020 By Hank Schultz

A startup armed with years of university research is seeking to make a splash in the hemp space with a line of cannabinoids produced via fermentation.

Special Edition: Baby and Toddler Skin Care

P&G study finds microbiota may play ‘important role’ in diaper dermatitis

02-Dec-2020 By Kacey Culliney

Personal care major Procter & Gamble (P&G) has shown that the skin microbiome in the diaper area among infants differs naturally but also changes according to disease states, suggesting microbiota may play an important role in diaper dermatitis.