Skin care

Celeb and influencers “now need to work a bit harder to prove why their brand is important and what it means to them"

18-Jan-2023 By Kirsty Doolan

Sephora pulled influencer lines from its shelves, Forma Brands filed for bankruptcy, and a slew of celeb beauty brands have faced increased consumer criticism. Is the ‘star power’-based business model failing? And if so, why?

Research indicates burdock seed oil active arctigenin has potential skin-brightening benefits

18-Jan-2023 By Cassandra Stern

For the first time, researchers have successfully extracted and produced a potent skin-brightening botanical extract from the burdock plant.

The true power of TikTok: How the social media platform has changed the trends cycle and what’s coming next

18-Jan-2023 By Kirsty Doolan

TikTok changed the entire trends cycle for beauty brands in 2022, but how can it be used to drive sales in 2023? And what will happen if it’s banned in the US and EU?

Special Edition: ACTIVE BEAUTY – VITAMINS, MINERALS AND PLANT POWER

The topical promise of vitamin C for skin health: Review

17-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

Topical cosmetic application of vitamin C is more effective than oral supplementation when targeting skin health, but challenges remain around stability and absorption, finds a review.

“We ask our customers what they want us to create next,” says Dr. PAWPAW founder

16-Jan-2023 By Kirsty Doolan

British-born beauty brand Dr. PAWPAW has grown exponentially over the past year and saw success in the US, despite the inflationary economy. We chatted with co-founder Johnny Paterson to discover how they’ve done it and what’s coming next for the brand....

‘Inclusion in innovation’ to evolve further in 2023 across beauty: CTPA

16-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

The inclusiveness of beauty – internally and externally – will continue to be key in 2023 and industry must remain open in its communication on the matter, says the director-general of the UK’s Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA).

Shower times and recycling: Weleda eyes ‘challenging’ Scope 3 emissions

13-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

Swiss natural and organic major Weleda has certified all its products climate neutral and is now focused on improving indirect Scope 3 carbon emissions associated with its portfolio.

The queen of beauty tech: Perfect Corp. CEO talks AI, AR, and future trends

13-Jan-2023 By Kirsty Doolan

Cosmetics Design-USA spoke to Alice Chang, the trailblazing CEO of Perfect Corp., about what’s next for AI and AR in the beauty industry…

Davos 2023: Beauty Kitchen founder wants to ‘elevate reuse message’ at World Economic Forum

13-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

Beauty Kitchen founder Jo Chidley will present its circular retail model ‘Re’ at this year’s World Economic Forum in Davos, spotlighting why reuse should no longer be a ‘fringe science’ but a mainstream way of thinking.

‘Unsexy beauty’ – The future of 2023 consumer ideals?

12-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

The notion that beauty consumers have a fresh appetite for hyperrealist standards and tackling taboo topics head-on continues to gain ground in 2023. But what exactly does this mean for industry?

'All melanins are not born equal': Skin pigmentation research must consider ‘broader story’, says derma professor

12-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

Researchers must strengthen lab models and overcome long-standing scientific bias and reliance on Euro-centric data if industry is to advance skin pigmentation knowledge, says a leading dermatology professor.

Beiersdorf, Firmenich, Kao, L’Oréal, LVMH secure ‘Triple A’ CDP 2022 rating

11-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

Four beauty giants and one fragrance major have been awarded a triple ‘A’ status for sustainable efforts across climate change, forests and water security this year, securing five of just 12 leadership spots in the annual CDP Rating.

Acne-buster: Collagen application can enhance the anti-acne effects of red and blue light irradiation

11-Jan-2023 By Amanda Lim

A study in China has suggested that alternating red and blue light irradiation combined with collagen dressing can improve the treatment efficacy of acne vulgaris.

Microbiome beauty space hampered by misinformation and in need of standardisation – BiomeCentric CEO

10-Jan-2023 By Amanda Lim

The understanding of microbiome products and ingredients have not kept up with its rapid development in beauty and requires more effort in standardisation, says a microbiome contract manufacturer.

CTPA chief: ‘Sustainability and essentiality will drive everything that we do this year’

09-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

A sharper focus and drive on sustainable action and communication will be key for beauty this year, as well as continued work on spotlighting how important and central products were to consumer wellbeing and daily lives, says trade head.

Sensitive skin specialist: Australian beauty brand Mary Grace gears up for overseas expansion

09-Jan-2023 By Hui Ling Dang

Australian beauty brand Mary Grace has given its packaging a facelift and is embarking on an NPD drive, as it readies itself to set foot into overseas markets.

Special Edition: ACTIVE BEAUTY – VITAMINS, MINERALS AND PLANT POWER

A mushroom ‘renaissance’? Immunity, skin health and wellness promise in cosmetics – Review

05-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

As mushrooms continue to garner interest in the wider wellness category, certain compounds could offer future promise in the edible and topical beauty space, say researchers.

Chinese herbal bath therapy shows efficacy against atopic dermatitis in children – new meta-analysis

05-Jan-2023 By Hui Ling Dang

Chinese herbs containing anti-inflammatory, anti-allergy, itch-relieving and immunoregulating benefits can reduce symptoms and the recurrence of atopic dermatitis, without the side effects associated with conventional treatment methods, say researchers....

Smart beauty: L’Oréal and J&J unveil CES 2023 ‘inclusive’ tech innovations

04-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

International beauty majors L’Oréal and Johnson & Johnson have launched smart beauty innovations in lipstick, brow care and skin supplements at this year’s CES tech tradeshow.

The retail return and ‘taboo’ beauty: NielsenIQ spotlights trends and topics to watch for 2023

04-Jan-2023 By Kirsty Doolan

The return of in-store shopping, growth for ‘taboo’ products and demand for at-home salon treatments are just some of the industry trends we can expect to see this year, says NielsenIQ.

Certifications, value for money and education: How industry can rethink sustainable beauty marketing

04-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

The beauty industry can connect better with consumers by rethinking how it communicates and markets sustainable product offerings, bringing additional aspects into the narrative, say industry executives.

COP15 Global Biodiversity Framework ambitions 'remarkable', says UNEP

03-Jan-2023 By Lynda Searby

Provisions for increased financial support for developing countries and sharing the benefits of genetic resources more fairly will help ensure delivery of the 'historic' deal agreed at the UN Biodiversity Conference (COP15) in Montreal, according...

British beauty braces for ‘turbulent trading period’ in 2023

03-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

Following many milestones and achievements in 2022, the British beauty sector is bracing for a turbulent trading period ahead that it plans to tackle collaboratively, says the CEO of the British Beauty Council.

All eyes on… Three emerging markets to watch for beauty and personal care growth in 2023

03-Jan-2023 By Amanda Lim

We speak to leading beauty and personal care brands to glean insights on three emerging markets – Vietnam, the Middle East and Central Asia – to see what 2023 has in store for the industry.

Special Edition: Active Beauty – Vitamins, Minerals And Plant Power

Botanicals ‘likely to be the future of sunscreens’ – Review

02-Jan-2023 By Kacey Culliney

Natural plant extracts will continue to garner interest in the sunscreen category because of the multitude of active and functional properties they offer to a formulation, in addition to UV protection, say researchers.

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Big Brand Talks 2022: Industry leaders weigh in on climate and global health

23-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

Executive leaders from Rituals, L’Oréal, Colgate-Palmolive, LMVH and Weleda discuss how industry can truly advance sustainably and how critical consumer education will be for driving true change in this space, as well as wider health and wellbeing shifts.

Beauty backtracking: CosmeticsDesign-Europe’s 10 most-read stories of 2022

22-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

There have been huge waves of innovation, collaboration and change in the beauty category this past year. Here, CosmeticsDesign-Europe takes a look back at our most-read stories in 2022.

Biotech firm Modern Meadow touts promise of yeast-based ‘biocollagen’

21-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

US biofabrication specialist Modern Meadow has developed a recombinant protein inspired by Collagen type III from yeast, offering the beauty industry a more sustainable alternative to traditional animal-sourced collagens, its VP of R&D says.

Beauty patents 2022: Smarter sun care, next-gen hair focus and digital

21-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

A flurry of patents were filed in 2022 from industry heavyweights, including L’Oréal, Unilever, Colgate-Palmolive and Shiseido. Here, CosmeticsDesign-Europe rounds up our coverage of the year’s patent-worthy innovations.

Skin care interventions in infancy may not prevent eczema or food allergies, instead may increase risk: Review

21-Dec-2022 By Gary Scattergood

Skin care interventions on healthy infants are likely ineffective in preventing eczema and may even increase skin infection and food allergy risk, according to researchers in Japan, Australia and Europe.

‘A generation is waking up’: Solid startup SBTRCT sees future in waterless skin care

20-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

The founder of UK skin care startup SBTRCT says consumer appetite is continuing to build for solid-format beauty and personal care products – an interest it hopes to drive further with retail and NPD expansion plans.

‘We absorb as much as we can’: Rising indie beauty brands weighed down by increasing costs and logistical issues

19-Dec-2022 By Amanda Lim

Logistical challenges and energy struggles are plaguing smaller independent beauty brands such as Shakeup Cosmetics, which says it is doing as much as it can not to pass on rising costs to its consumers.

‘Taking skin care to the next level’: Beiersdorf acquires S-Biomedic

16-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

Personal care major Beiersdorf has acquired a majority stake in Belgian biomedical research firm S-Biomedic, opening doors to advance work in skin care actives to manage and balance the microbiome.

P&G finance chief: ‘Immediate wow’ and ‘habit formation’ key to evolving superiority offerings

15-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

Products that instantly impress and brand communication that helps shape beauty and personal care usage will be key to driving superiority growth for Procter & Gamble, says its chief financial officer (CFO).

‘APAC is the big one’: Start-up with novel sun care discovery seeks B2B and DTC opportunities

15-Dec-2022 By Amanda Lim

A UK-based start-up founded by a couple of Oxford scientists is targeting business-to-business (B2B) and direct-to-consumer (DTC) opportunities in the Asia Pacific skin care market with its novel sun care solution.

Cost and lack of harmonisation slowing green material uptake in beauty, say suppliers

14-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

Higher costs and lack of supplier alignment are the core issues slowing uptake of green materials, ingredients and processes amongst beauty and personal care manufacturers and brands, say specialist suppliers.

Expert science, community self-care, sexual health and smart stores hold beauty promise in 2023: Mintel

14-Dec-2022 By Lynda Searby

Lynda Searby talks the democratization of science, the rise of intimate personal care and ‘tweakments’, and what beauty stores of the future need to look like, with Mintel’s Andrew McDougall.

What a gem! Jade extracts display anti-inflammation and skin repairing abilities – China study

14-Dec-2022 By Amanda Lim

Jade extract have been shown to display anti-inflammation and skin repairing activity in human skin fibroblasts, according to new research from Sichuan University, China.

Cleanser + cream: Unilever files patent on two-step SPF protection

13-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

International personal care major Unilever has developed a two-step method offering high SPF and UVA protection via a cleanser and cream that can be offered to consumers in a kit.

Superior products, data-driven claims and customer segmentation vital to turn R&D into sales success

13-Dec-2022 By Hui Ling Dang

Understanding consumers’ needs is the first step to fulfilling them, but that can be challenging when they already have misguided preconceptions of how a product works, veteran cosmetics and personal care researchers say.

The environmental impact of beauty: Why industry needs to measure, act and communicate

12-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

Measuring the environmental impact of the entire beauty industry is no easy feat, but one made a lot easier with collaboration, data-led mapping and engagement across the entire supply chain – from farmers to consumers, say industry experts.

Pilot study shows Verdure’s pomegranate extract boosts skin health

08-Dec-2022 By Hank Schultz

A new pilot study showed that a standardized pomegranate extract decreased skin wrinkles and improved other measures of epidermal health.

IFSCC Congress 2022 London, UK

NADES: French researchers say ‘future solvents’ may offer multifunctional cosmetics promise

08-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

Natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) or ‘future solvents’ from plants and microalgae could offer multifunctional promise for cosmetics because of their biocompatible nature, according to a research team from the University of Tours in France.

Save the rainforests: Imperative to find big beauty brands to support communities in Borneo – Forestwise CEO

08-Dec-2022 By Amanda Lim

Forestwise, a supplier of wild harvest ingredient from the rainforest, is aiming to secure multinational customers from the cosmetics and food industry in order to better support the community.

‘Collective action’: Cosmetics Europe unveils industry eco initiative Commit for Our Planet

07-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

European industry association Cosmetics Europe has launched a sustainability initiative to spearhead collaborative eco efforts and action across beauty and personal care, aiming to reduce overall carbon footprints, support biodiversity and improve packaging.

‘Retailers have got more involved' in ethical beauty – Ecovia Intelligence

07-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

Retailers are getting more involved in ethical standards and certifications, with many creating in-house schemes for beauty brands stocked in-store and online, and this trend will continue to rise in importance, says the founder of Ecovia Intelligence.

Collagen boosts skin immunity through anti-inflammatory response

07-Dec-2022 By Nicola Gordon-Seymour

Hydrolysed collagen reduces the synthesis of lipopolysaccharides (LPS) and the subsequent release of pro-inflammatory cytokines to preserve skin immune integrity and prevent infections in the elderly, say researchers.

Complex chemicals: Beauty must ‘invest a lot more’ in sustainable supply chains, says association chief

06-Dec-2022 By Kacey Culliney

The beauty and personal care industry must invest more in better understanding complex chemical supply chains and work with its partners to drive sustainable action, especially during disruptive times with COVID-19, Brexit and the climate crisis, says...

Deal analysis: Estée Lauder plays the long game with Tom Ford acquisition

06-Dec-2022 By Lynda Searby

Estée Lauder Companies’ acquisition of Tom Ford is a shrewd move that will allow the world’s second largest beauty company to better compete with its rival L’Oréal, says a GlobalData analyst.

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