Natural beauty ingredients in the future: Provital's IFSCC innovations

Spanish cosmetics ingredients company Provital, which works with natural actives, has one eye on growth as it recently hired a new strategy director, Eloi Armengol, to take the company to new heights.  

The company is also unveiling three innovations at the 34th Congress of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) which has kicked off in Foz do Iguaçu, Paraná, Brazil this week. 

To find out more about this, we spoke to its marketing manager Siham Bouhrir... 

Tree extract that targets “oxidative stress” in hair ​

At IFSCC, Provital will be revealing more about a pine tree bark extract that protects the molecular structure of hair from oxidative damage caused by bleaching and heat. 

According to the business, the innovation targets “oxidative stress from treatments like bleaching, perming, and colouring, as well as urban pollution”, which can cause texture variations, breakage, and vulnerability to humidity. 

“Our innovation suggests employing pine tree bark extract (PTBE), from Pinus pinaster, as a global protector to prevent hair damage, offering a solution to mitigate the effects of oxidative stresses on hair proteins from a preventative perspective,” explained Bouhrir.  

“More specifically, this innovation considers how typical hair oxidative damage results in chemical modifications of keratin such as carbonylation, impairing keratin function. As such, it offers an effective strategy that prevents external factors from causing carbonylation, thus shielding hair from damage that cannot be reversed.” 

Anti-pollution and well-ageing active ​

The second innovation, Shiloxome™ is an anti-pollution and well-ageing active that preserves the microbiome and improves the lipidomic profile in the skin. 

“This active ingredient, extracted from an endophytic yeast found in cork oak bark, exemplifies our approach to symbiotic-origin ingredients,” shared BOuhrir.  

“It enhances the skin’s resilience and activates its natural functions, while offering preventive benefits. We are proud of the recognition it has already received from scientific entities, reinforcing our innovative edge in the industry” 

The company said it has built from a previous study in which it described the isolation of a relevant collection of plant endophytes, showing that the ferment extract of the endophyte Kwoniella mangroviensis (KMFE) exhibited anti-ageing and anti-pollution effects in vitro.  

Now, it “investigates the in-vivo, well-ageing efficacy of KMFE by instrumental analysis, as well as by a multi-omics study, which includes the microbiome and cutting-edge lipidome analysis of human skin volunteers.” 

“This development builds from our cutting-edge work with plant endophytes,​ the symbiotic microorganisms have become ideal candidates to identify and produce novel and sustainable cosmetic actives,” said the company.  

Apple flower extract reduces cellulite ​

Last but not least, the third piece of research it is unveiling at IFSCC is a multi-omic study that reveals how apple flower extract reduces cellulite by mimicking caloric restriction.  

As the current skin care market is starting to put more focus on body care​, as well as facial skin care, it seems a well-timed innovation.  

The company calls it “a breakthrough research initiative that assesses the effect of Pyrus malus flower extract (PME) on cellulite, considering its impact on adipogenesis and lipolysis in human preadipocytes.” 

Future of naturals lies in “integration of biotechnology and nature” ​

Speaking about the research for Shiloxome, Bouhrir said there is currently “a strong demand for cosmetic ingredients that focus on skin protection and regeneration.” 

“Consumers are looking for products that enhance the skin's natural ability to adapt and defend itself against environmental stressors,” she continued. “Shiloxome, developed through the TriploBiome platform, responds to this demand by offering skin protection and stimulating collagen production, ensuring a comprehensive skin-care solution.” 

Bouhrir said that going forward, Provital’s goal is to “push the boundaries of cosmetic science, always combining nature and technology to offer high-performance and sustainable solutions.” 

“We believe that the future of natural cosmetic ingredients lies in the integration of biotechnology and nature. Our work with symbiotic microorganisms, specifically endophytes, showcases how these natural elements can be harnessed to develop ingredients that offer preventive benefits and targeted skin treatments,” she concluded.  

“Sustainability will continue to be key, with increasing demand for ingredients that are not only effective but also environmentally responsible.”