In the course of aging or after exposure to a stress such as UV, cell metabolism progressively slows down. Among the molecules impacted, proteins are particularly affected. Yet, they are indispensable components of the body that account for more than 25% of the constituents of the skin. Particularly, the production of functional proteins, taking place at the heart of cells, more precisely in the Endoplasmic reticulum (ER), ensures the vital mechanisms of the organism. At the cutaneous level, this optimal functioning translates into a firm and radiant skin. It therefore appears essential to preserve the metabolic activity of skin cells in the course of aging. To do so, SILAB Research developed ERISIUM, an anti-aging active ingredient that maintains protein balance (or proteostasis) at the heart of the ER.
Restoring the production of functional proteins
SILAB has shown that skin aging causes ER stress, as a result of the production of non-functional proteins: cellular proteostasis is interrupted. By studying the changes in ER stress, in particular in the dermis, the company showed for the first time that the latter is elevated and that the “repair function”, namely the UPR (Unfolded protein response), is deficient in old fibroblasts subjected to UVA irradiations. This deficiency in ER health leads to a mechanism of inflammaging that basically alters matrix architecture.
Faced with this observation, the company developed an anti-aging active ingredient that maintains protein balance by reactivating the UPR repair pathway and thereby reducing the endoplasmic reticulum stress. In addition, the inflammaging process is limited and the matrix dynamics is restored.
A biomimetic approach
For this development, SILAB decided to search for a plant raw material containing specific molecules involved in the UPR pathway in plant cells. This work led to the identification of rice (Oryza sativa L.), and especially the outer layers of the grain (bran + germ), mechanically removed during the transformation of whole rice into white rice. These co-products, which are natural sources of essential nutrients (proteins, fibers, inorganic salts, etc.), are able to maintain functional protein production by activating the UPR via signal peptides, whose enriched sequence in leucine and valine is known to target stressed ER.
The company has implemented a unique process based on enzymatic bioengineering to specifically extract these peptides of interest, whose efficacy to restore the UPR in old skin cells has been validated.
A global anti-aging effect
Tested on Caucasian and Asian panels, ERISIUM provides an anti-aging and radiance booster effect. Indeed, after 56 days of twice daily application, a visual scoring by trained evaluators using digital photos highlighted that ERISIUM formulated at 2.5% in an emulsion significantly reduces the stage of wrinkles by 12% (P < 0.01) on Caucasian volunteers (on the crow’s feet), and by 9% (P < 0.01) on Asian volunteers (on the nasolabial fold).
A subjective evaluation confirms these data, since at the end of the treatment, 100% of the Caucasian volunteers feel their skin smoother and 100% of the Asian volunteers consider their complexion radiance revived and their wrinkles and fine lines smoothed. All the Caucasian and Asian volunteers also find their skin firmer.
With its global anti-aging action, ERISIUM is a patented solution of natural origin at 99% (ISO 16128) and respecting biodiversity regulations. Available in aqueous solution (recommended amount: 0.5 to 2.5%) this active ingredient is compliant with international cosmetic regulations (Europe, United States, Japan, China, etc.).