The study, published in this month's Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, investigates the effect of Beiersdorf's Nivea Visage DNAge that contains both folic acid and creatine as active ingredients.
According to the Germany-based industry giant the ingredients aid DNA synthesis and repair, and play a role in cell turnover.
A range of in vitro and in vivo tests were performed on the actions of the commercially available DNAge.
The formulation reduces wrinkles in the crow's feet area, increases skin firmness and provides DNA protection from UV damage, according to the study.
Folic acid and creatine accelerate skin repair Folates play a crucial role in DNA synthesis and repair and recent research suggests that folic acid penetrates the skin barrier making it a promising topical ingredient, according to the study.
In addition, creatine is known to play a role in cellular energy supply and DNA protection, prompting the company to create an anti-ageing formulation combining the two ingredients.
An in vitro study, using EpiDerm skin models that were then pierced with a diamond drill bit, suggested that skin repair was significantly accelerated when the cell culture media contained folic acid and creatine.
"Results show that this supplementation [with folic acid and creatine] accelerates epithelial repair significantly after 48h compared with control skin models," said the researchers.
Decrease in wrinkle volume and skin firmness To test for the effect of the formulation on wrinkle volume, skin firmness and epidermal cell turnover, Beiersdorf performed a number of in vivo tests on human volunteers.
After wash out phases, during which no skin care products or specialised moisturising skin cleansing products were used, subjects were asked to apply a known quantity of Nivea Visage DNAge to the skin at regular predetermined intervals.
After four weeks of twice daily application the study found that cell epidermal turnover improved significantly, wrinkle volume in the crow's feet area was significantly reduced and skin firmness increased.
Formulation protects DNA from UV damage
The team also investigated the protection the formulation may provide against UV damage, the biggest external contributor to skin ageing.
Fifteen volunteers between 35 and 53 years of age applied the formulation twice daily to one forearm, leaving the other untreated.
Patches on the forearm were then irradiated with UV radiation.
After UV exposure fewer DNA lesions were observed in areas treated with the test formulation compared to the untreated areas, indicating DNA protective effects, according to the researchers.
The study concludes: "Overall, these observations show that topical application of the test formulation elicits beneficial effects on human skin counteracting the clinical signs of ageing."
Nivea is the industry giant's flagship brand, and it plays a central role in the company's plans to dominate the global skin care market.
"It proves to be strategically right to position Beiersdorf worldwide as a company for skin and beauty care," said the company's CEO Thomas-B Quaas on the release of Beiersdorf's fiscal year sales results earlier this year.
Source: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology March 2008, Volume 7, Issue 1, Pages 15 - 22 A novel treatment option for photoaged skin Anja Knott, Urte Koop, Heiko Mielke, Katja Reuschlein, Nils Peters, Gesa-Meike Muhr, Holger Lenz, Ursula Wensorra, Soen Jaspers, Ludger Kolbe, Thomas Raschke, Franz Stab, Horst Wenck, Stefan Gallinat