6 scientific findings in skin care to know about

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We’ve rounded up some of the latest clinical study findings that could impact the skin care category…

Zinc & selenium intake may reduce atopic dermatitis risk

A recent study by Chinese researchers has found that iron metabolism is linked to the onset of psoriasis, and that the intake of zinc and selenium could lower the risk of atopic dermatitis.

Clinical studies and meta-analytical reviews have suggested a correlation between serum concentrations of minerals and the pathogenesis of these conditions.

In a recently published paper, genome-wide association studies (GWAS) data and Mendelian randomisation were used to investigate the causal relationships among serum levels of five minerals (iron, copper, zinc, selenium, calcium), three iron metabolism indicators, and three chronic inflammatory skin diseases (psoriasis, atopic dermatitis (AD), and acne).

Ferritin level, total iron-binding capacity (TIBC), and transferrin saturation (TSAT) are critical biomarkers for evaluating iron metabolism and storage in the body.

TIBC indicates the total capacity of transferrin in the bloodstream to bind iron, while TSAT reflects the ratio of serum iron to TIBC and serves as an indicator of iron-binding status.

Abnormally high and low TSAT levels signal a disruption in iron homeostasis.

The analysis showed a significant association between TSAT and psoriasis (p = 0.004), whereby each unit increase in TSAT level was linked to an average 18% rise in psoriasis risk.

In addition, elevated serum levels of zinc and selenium were found to effectively reduce the risk of AD (p = 0.039), while serum levels of all five minerals had no significant causal links with acne. 

Increasing omega-3 intakes are linked to delayed ageing

Omega-3 fatty acids may slow the aging process, with the potential benefits weakening for doses over 1.1 g per day, says a new study from China.

Findings published in Frontiers in Nutrition indicated that there may be an optimal dose for omega-3s to delay biological aging, measured using Phenotypic Age Acceleration (PhenoAgeAccel), which is the difference between an individual’s phenotypic biological age (determined using biochemical markers) and their chronological age.

“Moreover, the study indicates that factors such as gender, age, ethnicity and hypertension may influence the relationship between omega-3 intake and PhenoAgeAccel,” wrote scientists from Beijing Sport University, China University of Geosciences, and the China Institute of Sport Science.

“For instance, males and participants aged 60 and above exhibited a stronger negative correlation with omega-3 intake, possibly reflecting differences in bioavailability, metabolic pathways or omega-3 fatty acid needs among different populations.”

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Mineral deficiencies linked to increased risk of inflammatory skin conditions

New research finds connections between disrupted iron homeostasis and genetic risk of psoriasis and highlights the potential protective role of zinc and selenium in atopic dermatitis.

Using data from the FinnGen database, a large biobank with genetic and health data from Finnish individuals, the researchers used two-sample Mendelian randomization (MR) analysis to obtain data on the potential causal relationship between blood mineral levels and chronic skin diseases.

Writing in the journal Frontiers in Nutrition, they explained that transferrin saturation (TSAT) is genetically linked to psoriasis (PS), emphasizing the role of iron homeostasis in disease development and that increasing zinc and selenium intake may help reduce the risk of atopic dermatitis (AD).

Chronic inflammatory skin diseases like PS, AD, and acne vulgaris (AV) can significantly harm patients' well-being by causing psychological and financial stress. Their recurring nature, complex causes, difficult treatment options and complications such as persistent itching, scarring and hyperpigmentation contribute to these effects.

The researchers noted that mineral supplementation plays a crucial role in maintaining human physiological functions and preventing chronic inflammatory skin diseases like PS, AD and AV.

AI-enhanced fluorescence photography could detect early skin conditions

A new peer-reviewed study shows this technique could offer a non-invasive skin diagnostic.

Beauty technology company Haut.AI has published a study that shows AI can be used to enhance skin fluorescence photography to “allow early, non-invasive detection of skin conditions.”

The research explored state-of-the-art developments in skin fluorescence photography and combined it with AI algorithms for non-invasive skin diagnostics.

Fluorescence photography captures the natural glow emitted by molecules like collagen and porphyrins when skin is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light.

It is anticipated that this approach could uncover skin issues such as acne, photoageing, and hyperpigmentation before they become visibly noticeable.

The researchers said this technique could help skin care experts diagnose underlying issues earlier, track treatment progress more effectively, and gain deeper insights into skin ageing. 

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Grape-derived skin supplement shows strong efficacy to lighten dark spots

As more companies innovate in the skin hyperpigmentation space, a tyrosinease inhibitor has shown promise as a nutraceutical for skin lightening.

French food-tech company Activ’Inside upcycles by-products of grapes from the Champagne region, which it says are up to five times richer in beneficial and bioavailable monomers than other Vinifera varieties.

In 2022, the company introduced Belight3 an ingestible ingredient that targets skin hyperpigmentation, and previous in-house in vitro study demonstrated an 85% reduction in tyrosinase activity.

This consumer usage study was carried out in France on Caucasian skin types under dermatological control, administering a 300 mg daily dose of Belight3 to 100 participants over a 60-day evaluation period and reporting a 30% reduction in dark spots related to age, 40% to sun exposure and 27% to pregnancy mask.

This research in France was the “first proof of concept,” and the company has since published the results of a second study conducted at DermaProof Asia Co., a clinical trial center in Bangkok, Thailand. 

The randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial involved 58 healthy Asian females and males between the ages of 45 and 65, with visible dark spots on the face and Fitzpatrick scale phototypes III to IV. Participants consumed 300 mg of Belight3 a day for 12 weeks and were evaluated through an objective assessment of both skin color and dark spots using validated tools.

Findings showed a 24.5% improvement in lighter and brighter skin and a 76.8% lightening of dark spots following 12 weeks of supplementation.

The company has also recently undertaken a clinical study in Italy to evaluate the efficacy of the formulation on Mediterranean skin types, but this will not be published until early 2025.

P. acnes inhibitor: Bamboo vinegar found to have similar properties to lauric, azelaic acid

A Chinese study has revealed that the organic acids found in bamboo vinegar demonstrated effects comparable to lauric and azelaic acid in inhibiting Propionibacterium acnes.

Bamboo vinegar is “the condensed liquid of bamboo obtained in a high-temperature oxygen-free environment.”

Its composition includes over 200 organic chemical constituents, primarily organic acids, phenols, ketones, alcohols, and esters, with acetic acid serving as the principal component."

A study conducted by researchers from Central South University of Forestry and Technology in Changsha, China has suggested that it has potential as an anti-acne solution when paired with activated bamboo charcoal.

Previous research has found that bamboo vinegar was effective against Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Salmonella enteritidis, Escherichia coli, Streptococcus agalactiae, and Candida albicans.

“In this study, the dissolved tar content in bamboo vinegar was markedly reduced after subjecting it to a two-step reduced-pressure distillation process, and its inhibitory effect on P. acnes was proved,” said the paper.

“Moreover, this study revealed that organic acids in bamboo vinegar exhibited properties similar to those of lauric and azelaic acid, both of which are known for their ability to inhibit P. acnes.”