Behind the bacterium innovation "for more sustainable sun protection"

Each year the Japanese beauty company Shiseido holds its annual Fibona Open Innovation programme startup competition for companies across the globe.

For this year’s challenge, the focus was ‘sustainable sun care’ – exploring innovations in UV filters and new ingredients that prioritise sustainability as well as sun safety.

The winner was an Italian startup, Bacfarm, which will now have its bacteria-based UV protection ingredient realised as a ‘proof of concept’ for Shiseido's microbiome-based skin care brand, Gallinée.

Bacfarm is a biotechnology startup and junior spin-off of the University of Cagliari that was launched by three founders, Giulia Guadalupi, Samuele Antonio Gaviano and Davide Emilio Lobina in 2020, but was based on two decades of research that has been done before this.

New molecules extracted from bacteria​

By leveraging specific know-how and its patents, Bacfarm commercialises new molecules extracted from bacteria that have potential uses as both cosmetic and nutra ingredients.

According to the startup, the versatile ingredients boast high antioxidant, filtering, colouring, and other properties and can address the growing global demand for raw materials sourced from alternative and sustainable sources.

“We are really honoured to be selected by the Shiseido Group as part of its open innovation program. To have the opportunity to prepare and pitch our product in front of a panel of industry experts really pushed us to the next level.” commented Giulia Guadalupi, CEO and co-founder of Bacfarm.

“To be able to bring Bacfarm’s idea to a proof-of-concept with Gallinée will not only bring visibility to our work, but also help us learn about how we can commercialise our knowledge and research to take it to a wide audience. Gallinée is a brand that has inspired us from day one, so working together with Dr Marie Drago will be a fantastic opportunity.”

Dr Marie Drago, who is chief creative officer at Gallinée, noted the competition is an opportunity to create the beauty of the future. “There is so much happening in the ingredient space, and the race for better sun filters is at the forefront of it. Partnering with fellow founders, and the next generation of innovators is everything Gallinée is about!”, she explained.

Potential use in sun protection NPD  ​

Sun protection is a rapidly growing category, as more people understand the various reasons why they need to protect their skin from UVA and UVB rays.  

At the same time, this category has faced much scrutiny in terms of sustainability and potential harm to the environment, namely to marine life, which can be impacted by topical sun protection products infiltrating ocean water.

Bacfarm’s new innovation is a UV protection product that’s derived from bacteria and attempts to find a solution to the instability of the chemical filters used today.

It is extracted from Deinococcus radiodurans​, which Bacfarm dubs “the most radiation-resistant organism ever.”

“Through our technology we want to exploit the power of this bacterium to provide a new sustainable solution for sun protection that can win the trust of consumers,” explained Guadalupi.

“We focus on extremophiles, which are bacteria that thrive in extreme environmental conditions. Their natural resilience makes them perfect candidates for our technological innovations, looking for new ingredients that find applications in different sectors.”

According to Guadalupi, the innovation “supports that there are no compromises on human health or product efficacy.”

“The robustness of these extremophiles enables us to introduce a product that isn't just an alternative but a leap towards the next frontier in cosmetic technology. It’s about offering something that’s better for both the planet and for consumers,” she continued.

Shows promise for nutraingredients, as well as cosmetics ​

The innovation also shows promise for use in supplements NPD too.

“Our extracts are rich in carotenoids, which we can purify,” explained Guadalupi. “Specifically, from Deinococcus radiodurans​, we can isolate deinoxanthin, which is known for its high antioxidant power.”

The founder said this is just the tip of the iceberg in terms of what is possible for this innovation. “The potential applications for these pure ingredients are vast, opening doors to new and highly targeted uses in health and wellness.”

Bacfarm is currently exploring all the possibilities when it comes to deciding what products the ingredients can be used in, but Guadalupi is certain of its versatility across product types and application.

The innovation is also based on 20 years of scientific research. Although Bacfarm was officially founded in 2020, the project itself was the result of over 20 years of research conducted at the University of Cagliari by Professor Dario Piano and Dr Domenica Farci, which Guadalupi said has “laid the foundation for the cutting-edge solutions we’re developing today.”

“Being a disruptive startup means that there are no established models or precedents to guide us,” continued Guadalupi.

Winning the Shiseido Fibona prize has been a big honour for the Bacfarm team. “It signifies that our solution addresses a real need in the market. It’s a validation of our efforts and a great opportunity to collaborate with Gallinée by Shiseido,” she said.

“This recognition gives us a tangible chance to see our ingredients make it to store shelves, turning our vision into reality.”

Going forward, the startup will now continue its research and development efforts to scale the business and bring its vision to life.

“Winning the prize is just the beginning. We aim to expand our capabilities, explore new applications, and maintain our commitment to innovation and sustainability. The road ahead is about pushing boundaries and setting new standards in biotechnology,” she concluded.

“We believe that the power of nature, combined with cutting-edge science, can lead to solutions that are beneficial for people and the planet. Our journey is about more than just business. It's about pioneering a better, more sustainable future.”