For Oliva, this was a chance to show beauty and personal care packaging experts what is happening in the cosmetics formulations space.
This is particularly important now, as more formulations need to change to either align with new regulatory needs, or to meet ever-changing consumer demands, or even both. Often, this kind of reformulation can require new approaches to packaging, too.
For example, the increasing popularity of alcohol-free fragrance formulas has needed a new approach to traditional spray-action perfume bottles because the way the scent is dispersed via a spay is different when using water compared to when you formulate with ethanol.
"Packaging experts and formulations experts need to work together more than ever,” Oliva said.
She also noted that no matter how good a formulation may be, the packaging and application method can make a difference to the end results experienced by the cosmetics consumer. “For example, with mascara, you have to really think about this,” she explained.
Oliva also shared some insight on the cosmetics formulation trends to note for the future.
“Trends that are growing right now include an increased popularity of neuro-cosmetics, as well as a bigger focus on the microbiome,” she explained, adding that microbiome-based skin care has its own set of considerations when it comes to packaging, to preserve the integrity of the formula.
Current cosmetics formulation trends to note
Here we outline the current formulation trends that Oliva was discussing at this year’s Luxe Pack show in Monaco.
Jelly-texture makeup
Rising colour cosmetics trends put a focus on jelly/pudding texture makeup, which adds an element of fun to the application process.
Product examples given by Oliva include:
- Fenty Beauty Match Stix Colour Adaptive Cheek Stick (pictured)
- Milk Makeup Cooling Water Jelly Tint
- Fwee Pot de Pudding
Multipurpose makeup formulas
These are the colour cosmetics formulas that can be used in more than one way to save time, according to Oliva. They are also perfect for on-the-go application.
Examples include:
- Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Lip & Cheek Cream Blush Stick
- Simihaze Skin Suede Melting Bronze Balm
- Pur Silky Pout Creamy Lip Chubby
The ‘cherry cola’ lips trend
From black honey to cherry cola lips, a dramatic pout has reigned in 2024. The cherry cola look uses a dark pencil to line the lips, followed by red lipstick and a slick of gloss.
Products related to the trend include:
- Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm Cherry
- Mac Lip Pencil
- Maybelline Superstay Vinyl Ink
(Image: Elf Instagram)
Douyin & glitter
This focuses on the C-beauty and Euphoria trends. For this look, wearers have a doll-like appearance with wispy lashes, shimmering shadow and lustrous lips
- Rom&nd Better than secret Glitter Garden Palette
- Keleidos Symphont Contour Trio
- Etude Tear Drop Eyeliner
Disruptive formulation trends
For Oliva, these are groundbreaking innovations that excite and reshape routines
Disruptive skin care
These include superfood-infused formulas and SPF in new and convenient formats. Examples of these products are:
- Ultra Violette Preen Screen Brume
- Drunk Elephant D Bronzi Anti-Pollution Sunshine Drops
- Youth to the People Superfood Cleanser
Disruptive makeup
These are the products that elevate the customer experience with innovative, disruptive and unexpected formulations.
- Chanel Water Fresh Tint
- Danessa Myricks Blurring Balm
- Wonderskin LipStain (pictured)
Disruptive ingredients
In 2024, these include alternatives to microplastics, plant-based emulsifiers, biodegradable exfoliants are replacing traditional synthetics. A cleaner future without sacrificing performance
- Upcycled lignin
- Konjac-derived texturising agent
- Tricaprylin and acacia Senegal gum to transform water into cream
- Clarified low acyl gellan gum
- Pigment-treated alginate
