UK-based Teysha Technologies has designed a material from natural feedstocks that readily biodegrades into natural, non-harmful sugars.
The company said the novel material, Aggiepol, has the potential to eliminate the 8,700 tonnes of microplastics used in cosmetics in Europe.
It can be used in beauty and personal care products such as eyelash glue, fillers, shampoos, face foundations and photo protection.
Teysha Technologies noted that microplastic fragments stay in the environment for hundreds of years and contain toxic chemicals that can be absorbed by the skin.
Despite the UK’s 2018 ban on exfoliating plastic microbeads in cosmetics products, microplastics from other sources including thickeners, film-forming agents and stabilisers continue to be used in formulations.
The business said it has rigorously tested AggiePol’s compounds and formulas to fit product lines and production techniques. It has also received a Certificate of Biodegradability following successful OECD 310 testing.
We spoke to head of R&D at Teysha Technologies, Dr Ashlee Jahnke, to find out more...
Cosmetics Design-Europe (CDE) How exactly will this ingredient 'eliminate thousands of tonnes of microplastics'?
Ashlee Jahnke (AJ) AggiePol is created with naturally derived starting materials. We incorporate sugar-based monomers, particularly glucose, which we source from starch. This starch can be obtained from various natural sources, including food or waste products like corn and rice, agricultural waste such as cassava peel, and even alternative feedstocks like algae. Before polymerisation, we functionalise the glucose with other natural products and combine it with commercially available comonomers, which can also be naturally sourced.
Our goal is to eliminate plastics in cosmetics by replacing primary microplastics in personal care products with biodegradable alternatives, and replacing macroplastics with degradable materials that break down into environmentally benign products.
CDE: How long does the material take to break down?
AJ: This is a versatile platform technology, meaning its breakdown time varies significantly depending on its chemical composition.
For instance, we have a material that has earned OECD 310 Ready Biodegradability certification, which breaks down in less than a month.
On the other hand, we also develop materials intended for applications requiring much longer lifespans, ranging from years to decades, and are thus designed to degrade more slowly.
Most importantly, all of our materials are engineered to biodegrade in the natural environment.
CDE: Are there any potential drawbacks that cosmetics companies should consider if they wish to implement this technology into their supply chain?
AJ: We’ve created AggiePol with businesses in mind to ensure there is a smooth transition away from traditional plastics.
For example, while cosmetics companies may need to consider potential added costs for novel technologies that require new production equipment, AggiePol is a scalable solution that is compatible with existing infrastructures and offered at a competitive price point because it’s made from low-cost raw materials.
