On 11 and 12 September, global suppliers, designers, developers, marketers, founders, and buyers are set to flood London’s ExCel exhibition centre for London Packaging Week.
Ahead of the upcoming show, we quizzed the senior marketing manager at the event organiser Easyfairs UK, James Montero MacColl, about what’s been happening in the cosmetics packaging realm, and what we can expect to see at this year’s show…
CosmeticsDesign-Europe (CDE): What trends are you expecting to see in the cosmetics packaging industry at this year's event?
James Montero MacColl (JMM): We are seeing a trend towards minimalism in structural design, driven by legislation and consumer preferences. Legislation like PPWR in the EU is encouraging packaging designers across all sectors to adopt Design for Recycling principles. That means, in addition to adopting more easily recyclable materials, packaging designs are trending towards smaller structures that use fewer materials. This is generally complemented by a less-is-more approach to aesthetic design, focusing on clean, simple labelling and muted colours.
Consumers – particularly Millennials and Gen Z – are also playing their part in driving this trend. These generations are generally looking for products that they perceive to be sustainable, with a short list of simple ingredients. In many cases, they look for a dermatologist’s approval, too. Packaging with a minimalist, almost medical aesthetic implies these qualities to consumers, making them most likely to meet shoppers’ demands.
In recent years, we have seen cosmetics brands tease out a lot of subtle differentiation using finishes and textures, enhancements like embossing and debossing, and material choices. Minimalism doesn’t have to breed homogeneity, and we expect to see that proven on the show floor this year.
‘Art from adversity’ is a virtue we see in the cosmetics industry over and over again – as the creative constraints on designers seemingly get tighter, they continue to find groundbreaking ways to differentiate their products.
We also expect to see new innovations in the field of accessible beauty. This is a particularly exciting area because innovations developed with inclusivity in mind can often cross over into mainstream beauty packaging. For example, if an applicator is designed for those with motor skills difficulties, it will likely be easier for everyone to use.
CDE: What kinds of challenges is the cosmetics packaging industry currently facing?
JMM: Every industry is facing a difficult balancing act at the moment, and cosmetics packaging is no different. Balancing supply chain issues, rising costs, consumer preferences, and sustainability demands is no mean feat. In many cases, these issues are tangled together and impossible to address in isolation.
For example, consumers desire more sustainable packaging, and brands and retailers develop their own sustainability goals to meet these demands. However, meeting these goals often requires heavy investment in R&D and new production processes, which can drive up costs. At a time when material costs are rising across the world anyway, this can mean difficult decisions have to be made.
There is no magic bullet solution to these problems. Businesses have to pick their balancing point and trust their vision and innovation capability to see them through.
CDE: Is there anything else that cosmetics businesses should be aware of in terms of global regulations surrounding packaging?
JMM: New regulations around safety information – such as the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act in the US – places new demands on the cosmetics industry, similar to the demands faced by healthcare companies.
Just like healthcare companies must provide detailed safety information in multiple languages, we are increasingly seeing the same expected of the cosmetics industry. Packaging has to evolve in order to carry that information, whether through on-pack printing, multi-fold labels, or innovative leaflet inserts.
