Natural active that “stimulates endogenous regeneration of NAD+”
NAD+, which has been a star ingredient in anti-ageing supplements, plays a crucial role in various cellular processes but so far hasn’t successfully been used in cosmetics, as the molecule has poor stability and cannot be ‘taken up’ into skin cells.
Mibelle Biochemistry has launched a holistic solution, RejuveNAD – sourced from sustainably cultivated sunflower sprouts through indoor farming – which it said can increase NAD+ levels in the skin through cosmetic applications. The company said the natural active ingredient stimulates the endogenous regeneration of NAD+ by activating enzyme NAMPT and naturally boosts the longevity module to support cellular processes.
According to Mibelle Biochemistry, clinical studies show that the active can “counteract at least five hallmarks of ageing in the skin simultaneously: Mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, loss of proteostasis, epigenetic alteration and genomic instability”. It said the ingredient can “make the skin look eight years younger in just 42 days.”
NAD+, which has been a star ingredient in anti-ageing supplements, plays a crucial role in various cellular processes but so far hasn’t successfully been used in cosmetics, as the molecule has poor stability and cannot be ‘taken up’ into skin cells.
Mibelle Biochemistry has launched a holistic solution, RejuveNAD – sourced from sustainably cultivated sunflower sprouts through indoor farming – which it said can increase NAD+ levels in the skin through cosmetic applications. The company said the natural active ingredient stimulates the endogenous regeneration of NAD+ by activating enzyme NAMPT and naturally boosts the longevity module to support cellular processes.
According to Mibelle Biochemistry, clinical studies show that the active can “counteract at least five hallmarks of ageing in the skin simultaneously: Mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, loss of proteostasis, epigenetic alteration and genomic instability”. It said the ingredient can “make the skin look eight years younger in just 42 days.”
Perfectyl is a new biofunctional anti-ageing/anti-blemish ingredient from Ashland designed to target “multiple flaws induced by external and lifestyle stresses, such as post-inflammatory-hyperpigmentation and sebum overproduction.”
The high-tech chamomile extract was developed using Zeta Fraction™ technology and driven by AI to “relax facial lines without the need for injections,” according to the company.
R&D director at Ashland, Isabelle Imbert, said that recent studies show GABA is associated with skin pigmentation, remodelling, and muscle relaxation. She also said GABA amino acid is a neurotransmitter that could be “the new natural cosmetic alternative solution to Botox as a facial line expression relaxer.”
Tagra has recently launched DeeperCaps, which are encapsulated pigments designed for use in hybrid skincare-colour cosmetics made for darker skin tones.
The company said these can be combined with UV filters in formulations to increase the filters’ efficacy and deliver higher SPF protection and they are paired with Shea Butter for intense moisturisation. It also claimed the technology removes the need to add more iron oxide pigments to formulations.
Formulators can use high levels of pigments that are only broken upon application, without affecting the stability or texture, that will offer a skin tone match with no “white-cast” effect.
Vegan DDS Pure Retinal was recently launched by INdermal, the cosmetics division of Nanovex Biotechnologies.
The ingredient contains biomimetic nanovesicles and gives high moisturisation and restorative action. The stability of the ingredient under various manufacturing conditions means it is useful for large-scale production.
Studies undertaken by the company have demonstrated “a recovery of 123.61% in collagen an 111.18% in elastin”, which it said surpasses the effects of free retinal by 3.7 times.
Agrimer has launched a new anti-ageing ingredient from Algafiller.
The company said its patented process uses Codium tomentosum extract (AKA sponge seaweed extract) that’s obtained by auto-hydrolysis, titrated in sulfated arabinogalactans and mannans.
So far, both in vitro and in vivo tests have shown it offers filler effect/lipofilling, improved firmness, increase in dermal density and reduction of wrinkles and fine lines.
Jolee 7777 is an optimised emulsifier blend that enables the formulation of water-in-oil-in-water emulsions in one step through a direct emulsification process. This offers a sensorial change during product application: with an initial light feel followed by a nourishing finish.
Oleon Health and Beauty, which makes the ingredient, said that under the right preparation conditions and with an optimised water and oil phase, multiple emulsions with high stability can be obtained.
It’s also a liquid emulsifier package, so can be used for cold process formulation methods to save time and energy.
