We’ve rounded up some of the key highlights of this topic as on display at the show, from market-leading expert insights during the educational programme, to some of the most exciting ingredients launches in this space.
Protection trend: microbiome focus
With promoting healthy skin now a major marketing focus across the industry, the microbiome offers a novel route to tapping into this.
Euromonitor’s senior consultant, Dr Maria Coronado Robels, was one expert presenting on the topic, and her presentation on ‘New Claims in Skincare: Anti-pollution and Probiotic Ingredients’ drew crowds from across the showfloor.
Coronado Robles said: “The protection trend is evolving quickly and while anti-pollution claims were at the centre of the radar in 2017, this year the microbiome research will be at the top of the agenda of key beauty players.
“In fact, advances in the microbiome science have the potential to shake up the entire skin care industry expected to grow globally at a CAGR of 6% in value terms between 2016 and 2021.
“Brands are looking at protection claims through different lenses and it is challenging to pinpoint which is the best approach.
“Obviously, ingredients such as botanicals and vitamins were far more attractive to consumers than bacteria, but the truth is that probiotics present an opportunity to reduce the need for chemical ingredients and promote the skin’s own defence mechanisms.”
Speaking to Cosmetics Design, the market expert suggests that while only a few key small finished product players are leading this trend, they have good science behind them and this is set only to develop.
Find our exclusive video interview with Coronado Robles live on Cosmetics Design next week.
Ingredients leaders?
While the science in the skin microbiome space remains in its infancy, there was no shortage of ingredients manufacturers already making strides in this area, with several offering launches at the show with microbiome-related claims.
Two highlights seen by Cosmetics Design were from Givaudan, and from Codif.
Givaudan’s ingredient, Revivyl, is a skin renewal accelerator that works with the microflora of the skin, tapping into the rising trend for microbiome related skin care.
It was even picked out for an accolade in Cosmetics Design’s independently judged Beauty Industry Awards, scooping the Best Skin Care Ingredient award.
Codif’s Actibiome is a combination of various components providing a variety of nutrients to support the biodiversity and homeostasis of the skin microbiota.
It reverses any imbalance and the microbiota returns to its initial condition, says Codif, with redness disappearing and the complexion appearing more homogeneous.