Speaking at a recent industry event - the Cosmetics Consultants Europe group’s Open Academy in Barcelona - Jørgen Gade Hyldgaard from consulting firm Hygade APS (Denmark), outlined the technology.
Solubility parameters have been developed, he explains, to offer a way to calculate how to use and substitute ingredients which are deemed undesirable for any reason (i.e. for having an unsuitable sustainability profile).
The industry expert explains that his team has created an algorithm that can calculate the solubility parameters of synthetic ingredients, and use these measurements to work out natural alternative materials.
Hyldgaard suggests this will have particular relevance and impact in the hunt for alternative preservative ingredients, an area that has been a point of concern for the industry of late.
What’s the need for natural alternatives?
Consumer demand for natural claims and broader industry interest in sustainable practices is driving an enormous demand for natural alternatives.
“We have during the last year seen [...] the highest ever relative proportion of new natural ingredients and documentation of these,” confirms Hyldgaard.
“This means that nearly all the larger suppliers of our industry now support the development of sustainable, natural cosmetics products.”
Not ‘preservative-free’
Hyldgaard recommends brands describe the products with natural alternative preservatives as ‘self-preserving’ rather than chasing the marketing claim of ‘preservative free’.
In the same way the conserves and jams preserve with the sugar inherent to their composition, so too could cosmetics and skin care products be considered as self-preserving, he suggests.
What is the Open Academy?
The CCE’S Open Academy first edition (16 October 2017) saw a series of eminent experts from across the industry Europe present on various hot topics.
Highlights include presentations on non-animal testing methods for next generation ingredients, software tools for formulation and regulatory affairs, and CPR, REACH and Brexit. Further information on the CCE can be found here.