Retinol: the active ingredient
Shiseido reveals that retinol-formulated products have a positive effect and efficacy in improving skin wrinkles.
Acquired for the first time in Japan, the retinol acting ingredient has been recognised for their effect and efficacy, with Shiseido claiming that the formulation has improved ‘deep’ wrinkles in women in nine weeks.
Wrinkle improvement
The wrinkle classification grade - developed from the guidelines developed by the Japanese Cosmetic Science Society - was applied to ascertain the extent of wrinkle improvement. This indicated that Shiseido’s new product with retinol as the acting ingredient improved the before and after wrinkle grade by four levels.
Based on Japan’s Pharmaceutical Affairs Act, the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare has approved and identified Shiseido’s product formulations for improving wrinkles.
Shiseido has invested in retinol research for over 30 years, to contribute towards the global anti-ageing sector via a range of skin care products. It is currently the only Japanese company that manufactures and sells quasi-drug products with retinol as a core part of the active ingredient formulation.
Clinical trial
The multinational organisation carried out a clinical trial with Japanese women aged 37–54 years old, who had shallow to deep wrinkles at the corners of the eyes.
The women used the new product with retinol as the active ingredient and a second product without retinol for nine weeks, before the results were analysed with a measuring instrument by dermatologists.
Following the nine-week usage period, marked improvement was found when using the new product compared with the non-retinol product. This was highlighted by the participants' deep lines from the corners of the eyes and fine wrinkles around the eyes, as well as decreases in wrinkles.
Dermatologists also took three-dimensional images of wrinkle areas, which demonstrated the improvement to the appearance of wrinkles.
Also, the women who trialled the product completed a questionnaire on subjective efficacy, which also revealed they had seen an improvement in the display of wrinkles.
Overcoming instability
While retinol has been used in quasi-drugs as an active ingredient for dry skin, it has been known for its instability when met with oxygen, heat and sunlight.
To maximise stability and its effectiveness as part of a daily skin care routine, Shiseido created a non-degradable retinol formulation, along with a container for retinol formulations.
Shiseido recognises retinol capabilities for increasing the production of hyaluronic acid and contribute towards retaining moisture and preserving skin elasticity, to reduce wrinkles.