What’s trending in the natural anti-ageing category right now?

Worldwide both the global anti-ageing and natural beauty markets continue to return growth figures in the upper single digits, which is why manufacturers are continuing to simultaneously target these categories with increasingly sophisticated solutions designed to provide effective formulations for skin care, supplements and hair care products.

In the past few months a number of interesting launches have caught the eye of beauty experts eyeing solutions that answer consumers’ longing for products that will help them maintain a youthful appearance, as well as contributing to a sense of wellbeing, while also being derived from natural sources.

Apple stem cells save the day​

Last month Cosmetics Design reported on how researchers in France and Spain have developed a novel anti-ageing facial serum containing apple stem cell extract​, pro-collagen lipopeptide, creatine, and urea, which has been shown to significantly improve skin condition.

The team, from Isdin Medical Department in Barcelona, and Laboratoire Dermscan in Lyon/Villeurbanne, claim the first visible results of a significant improvement to ageing skin signs was achieved after one week of use.

“The product seemed to optimize the metabolic functions in human senescent cultured fibroblast restoring a more efficient cell metabolism therefore contributing to the anti-ageing properties of the product,”​ they say.

Epithelial regeneration in skin is achieved by the constant turnover and differentiation of keratinocytes. Epidermal and dermal stem cells compartments are fundamental for the continuous renewal of the skin.

Coffee isn't just for drinking​

At the end of last year Cosmetics Design reported on research that proves Green coffee oil is safe to use in anti-ageing products​.

Green Coffee Oil is often used in cosmetic formulations due to its emollient and anti-ageing properties, but now research has confirmed it is safe for topical application and displays good skin compatibility.

The oil, extracted from unroasted coffee beans, is used in cosmetics as it can contribute to the skin barrier and to improve hydration, and also has the capacity to absorb UVB radiation, as well as protective properties.

A research team made up of colleagues in Portugal and Brazil decided to further research the safety of the ingredient, as despite its use there are insufficient studies about its safety when applied in cosmetic formulations.

Given that Green Coffee Oil possesses skin care properties and that it is a sustainable resource, the aim of this study was to conduct an integrated approach that combines in vitro​ cell culture assays and in vivo​ studies conducted in humans using biophysical techniques to assess the skin compatibility of formulations containing it.

“The results obtained in the study indicate that GCO seems to be safe for topical applications and showed good skin compatibility under the experimental conditions of the study,”​ says the study.

Raspberry's anti-ageing secret is unlocked​

Back in November Cosmetics Design reported on a raspberry​ extract that has been clinically proven to be a highly effective skin hydration and wrinkle treatment.

The research was carried out into the Rubus idaeus liposoluble extract, and published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science​ , by scientists from Italian firms VitaLab and Arterra Bioscience, who found that it can be used as a hydrating and moisturising ingredient in face and body lotions, and as anti-ageing product in face creams specifically designed to fight wrinkle formation.

Raspberry plants, belonging to the species of Rubus idaeus, are known for their excellent therapeutic properties as they are particularly rich in compounds with strong antioxidant activity, which promote health and well-being of human cells.

Besides their high content of phenolic compounds, Rubus plants are rich in oil-soluble compounds, which are also primary components of the hydrolipidic film barrier of the skin.

The researchers found that when tested on skin cell cultures, the extract induced the genes responsible for skin hydration, such as aquaporin 3, filaggrin, involucrin and hyaluronic acid synthase, and stimulated the expression and the activity of the enzyme glucocerebrosidase, involved in ceramide production.