Evonik launches solubilizer for natural and lipophilic oils

German speciality chemicals firm Evonik has launched TEGO Solve 61, a PEG-free solubilizer designed to incorporate natural oils and lipophilic emollients into a variety of cosmetics formulations.

Based on polyglyceryl esters, the ingredient is made from 100 per cent renewable raw materials, thus making it suitable for use in natural cosmetics. TEGO Solve 61 is cold processable for ease of use, Evonik states, and can create crystal clear formulations.

A spokesperson for the company told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com that the solubilizer has applications in cleansing products such as body wash, shower gel, shampoo, bath oils and bath foams.

According to Evonik, TEGO Solve 61 can effectively solubilize very lipophilic ingredients such as avocado, argan, jojoba and sunflower oil. The company notes that it also enables hydrophobic emollients like Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride or hydrophobic perfume oils, preservatives or actives to be solubilized in water or water-based formulations.

Demonstrated solubilizing efficacy and benefits

Tests carried out on the ingredient demonstrated that TEGO Solve 61's solubilizing efficacy is comparable to that of the market standard PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and outstrips the PEG-free standard.

Evonik also performed tests to assess the solubilizing benefits of
TEGO Solve 61 for different natural oils. The ingredient was found to be even more effective than the market standard PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and was shown to clearly outperform the PEG-free benchmark.

Furthermore, Evonik highlights that TEGO Solve 61 has ultra-mild cleansing attributes as well as improved skin feel and moisturising benefits. In vitro red blood cell tests demonstrated mitigating effects, the company says, meaning that the mildness of the final formulation can be improved by adding the ingredient to a surfactant base.

Evonik to showcase TEGO Solve 61 at in-cosmetics

Evonik will be presenting TEGO Solve 61 at in-cosmetics 2014 in Hamburg next week, April 1-3, and will also be showcasing its TEGO Care PBS 6 and Spinghony ingredients.

An eco-friendly ingredient for sun care formulations, TEGO Care PBS 6 is based on polyglycerol technology and described as ‘a versatile PEG-free O/W emulsifier for challenging fluid emulsions’.

Meanwhile, Sphingony is a naturally occurring, skin-identical sphingolipid claimed to prevent hair loss and improve hair quality by rebalancing the life cycle of the hair and boosting scalp health.