Debuted at the in-cosmetics event in Paris this year, the new “Senses” tool considers different parameters and characteristics, with a special focus on sensory aspects of emollients.
Most cosmetic products are formulated with a mixture of emollients, carefully chosen based on their different structures and physico-chemical properties.
Physical aspects like polarity, surface tension, and pour point are among the key characteristics documented in the Senses tool, according to the German firm.
"This new tool makes it easy for cosmetics manufacturers to choose the right combination of cosmetic oil for their products while keeping the sensory aspects in mind," says Dr Thomas Satzinger, director of Global Marketing Evonik Personal Care.
“Formulating up-to-date cosmetics can be a challenge, especially when it comes to selecting ingredients and combining them in perfect balance. Emollients are no exception.”
Alongside physical data, the Senses technology also establishes the effects of emollients on UV filter solubility; important as these are present in a number of products nowadays, not just sunscreen.
Senses also maps the effect of different oil components on skin feel, enabling customers to formulate the sensory profile that is desired.
The new selection tool gives cosmetic companies an understanding of each emollient’s penetration into a given material; helping to avoid instabilities in the final market product.
“All of these factors influence the final texture, sensory feel, and overall performance of a cosmetic product,” says Evonik. “Senses is an expert advice booklet on emollient selection for customers to help decide and create products with improved sensory and emotional appeal.”
After the launch during in-cosmetics the tool has been rolled out further to other parts of the world such as FCE in Brazil, NYSCC in the US as well as CITE in Japan.