Lipex SheaLight is positioned as a general-purpose emollient for a wide range of cosmetics and is an extension of AAK Personal Care’s Lipex line of shea-based functional emollients.
The ester is aimed at cosmetics brands looking to develop formulations that combine light, dry sensorial properties with a better sustainability profile, the company states, highlighting that the ingredient fits with the global trend towards making skin care products lighter (particularly facial skin care and body care).
“The trends in cosmetics often start in Asia today, and in Asia light formulations have been the norm for a long time. Also in Latin America skin care formulations with a light skin feel are appreciated for their wearability through the day,” AAK Personal Care’s technical director, Jari Alander, told CosmeticsDesign.com USA.
Eco-design
The eco-design of Lipex SheaLight lies in a combination of factors designed to minimize environmental impact: shea butter and ethanol from renewable sources, environmentally acceptable catalysts and soft processing.
Alander explained that in terms of the esterification process, “our method is environmentally friendly because we make the ester at lower temperatures and use more environmentally friendly catalysts. Also, the alcohol we are using (ethanol) is an agricultural product and not derived from mineral oil.”
Unique sensory properties
Lipex SheaLight is said to have unique sensory properties compared to other shea butter based ingredients, a claim supported by the results of an evaluation performed by a trained sensory panel in which the ingredient was found to be less greasy and more powdery compared to reference emollients.
AAK Personal Care notes that the results of the evaluation confirm a desired sensory profile for modern skin care lotions and creams, extending shea butter use to new applications.
In terms of product applications, Lipex SheaLight is suitable for use as an emollient for any type of body lotion, and is also said to be a good base for make-up removal and emulsion type facial cleansers.
Furthermore, the company reports that it combines well with different types of active ingredients for facial care creams and serums, thus making it easy to formulate products for aging and sensitive skin.