In a presentation given at this week's in-cosmetics Asia 2012, Croda marking manager for skin care and make-up, Jennifer Donahue, opened up on how emulsifiers play a crucial part in engineering the exact sensorial qualities consumers have come to expect from different topical products.
The importance of sensorial qualities has been underlined by the recent L'Oreal international advertising campaign for its Garnier Moisture Rescue product, which stresses the 'incredible feel' of the product's formulation.
Getting 'Sensification' spot on
But getting the right sensorial properties for the right product takes time and dedication, which Donahue explained has been termed 'Sensification' by the company's development team.
"Sensorial perception is very complex and laboratory instrumentation can only take us so far in this equation," she explained.
“The answer is to use tools such as Croda’s Sensification samples to determine the initial sensory profile that best matches your product positioning,” added Donahue.
Taking in the complete sensory spectrum
Croda employs the expertise of New Jersey-based Sensory Spectrum to analyze a range of properties which takes into account 33 different tests within five specific areas, including: appearance, pick-up, rub-out, immediate after-feel, and after feel at 20 minutes.
Such detailed testing gives a data sheet full of information that covers the tiniest details of the sensorial properties, helping to form a comprehensive and incredibly accurate assessment of each individual formulation.
To accurately assess the significant volume of resulting data, the company employs the Principal Component Analysis, an assement method that is designed to reduce the number of dimensions to ultimately identify the sensory attributes delivered by a range of emulsifiers.
Emulsifiers help fine tune sensory properties
In recent years a growing band of technologically advanced emulsifiers have been developed and employed to bring about cosmetic formulations with anything from light and fluid properties to heavy and viscous qualities, and everything in between.
With this in mind, the Croda research and development team has been working hard in recent years to provide a comprehensive portfolio of emulsifiers designed to give the whole spectrum of sensorial properties.
These include the Crodafos line, designed to give a fluid/heavy feel, Incroquat, for a viscous/heavy feel and Arlacel, designed to give a natural viscous/light feel, together with PolaSperse, designed to give a cooling and soothing feel that is suitable for a range of formulations, including daily UV care.
Croda believes that, ultimately, its Sensification idealogy helps to address the customer's need for products that have a novel feel and texture that helps to both identify and distinguish the product, giving it an all-important head start in today's competitive market.