Stable Vitamin C Provides Potency to Collagen Boosting Products

15-Dec-2011 - Last updated on 16-Dec-2011 at 14:18 GMT

New discoveries of natural potent sources of Vitamin C are making their way into collagen boosting, lightening skin care products. These effective ingredients are raising the bar for clinical claims of lightening and collagen synthesis.

The indigenous Australian Kakadu Plum has gained world-wide recognition with the highest recorded levels of natural Vitamin C. This fruit measures up to 7000 mg/100g DW, which is 100 times the Vitamin C content in orange. It is rich in antioxidants. The Kakadu Plum provides a rich stable source of Vitamin C, as well as Vitamin B9, Vitamin E and Lutein.

As a native Aussie ingredient, the Kakadu Plum can be found in Mary Kay’s TimeWise Replenishing Serum+C, and Niko’s Organic Kelp and Kakadu Extreme Anti-Oxidant Mask.

Ethyl-Ascorbic Acid for skin lightening

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, trade named Corum 9515, works on all three steps of skin lightening and melanin inhibition. This is a potent and stable Ester that is effective on skin brightening, promoting collagen synthesis and reducing dark spots. It also provides excellent stability to a variety of formulations.

AA2G (Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside), from Hayashibara, is natural Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) stabilized with glucose. Glucose protects the Vitamin C from various mechanisms of degradation. This new, more stable Vitamin C has the same physiological activation as traditional Vitamin C.

Syner-C, manufactured and supplied by ingredients firm Presperse, is completely new to the market and has the proposed INCI name of sodium ascorbyl glucoside, hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, maltodextrin, portulaca oleracea extract. This product was developed based on the theory that inflammation leads to hyper-pigmentation through multiple pathways, not just through the tyronsinase pathway.

Syner-C works in conjunciton with stabilized Vit C

The unique approach of Syner-C’s skin lightening potential is to block the pathways by using anti-inflammatories and anti-oxidants in conjunction with a stabilized form of vitamin C. These combine to team up against melanogenesis, leading to an improved level of whitening activity.

L-Ascorbic Acid is known for collagen synthesis and is easily decomposed in formulas. It is highly soluble, but extremely unstable in water and rapidly decomposes to form dehydroascorbic acid.

This degradation of L-Ascorbic Acid is even more pronounced in the presence of oxygen. To ensure efficacy, airless, non-aqueous delivery of this Vitamin C in a liposome or microencapsulated format is vital.

Our bodies continually lose Vitamin C as we age. Therefore, stable forms of Vitamin C are topically needed later in life to maintain a youthful, brighter, even-toned skin.