The study was performed by researchers at Yves Rocher and University Paris Descartes, and investigated the effect of oligogalacturonides from apple pectin on human keratinocytes.
According to the researchers, pectins, a family of complex polysaccharides present in plant cell walls, are well known to regulate a number of important functions in plant growth and development.
“Complex sugars are one of our big study areas. We are interested in oligogalacturonides as these compounds are found in plants and are known to regulate important phenomenon,” Celine Laperdrix, Yves Rocher’s laboratory head for cell biology and skin, told CosmeticsDesign.com USA.
Compound promotes epidermal growth
In order to test the effect of the apple pectin oligogalacturonides the researchers used human dermal fibroblast cultures, investigating epidermal thickness and organization as well as looking at a number of markers associated with differentiation.
According to the team, 0.01 percent apple pectin oligogalacturonides promoted epidermal growth and differentiation, as well as stimulating keratinocyte cohesion and favouring the interaction of keratinocytes with basement membrane molecules.
Keratinocyte cohesion and interaction with the basement membrane is very important for a functioning skin barrier, Laperdrix explained.
Basal keratinocytes are attached to the dermo-epidermal junction by integrin proteins, which enable cellular proliferation and differentiation, eventually leading to the establishment of a barrier function, she said. Adding that, with aging, the dermo-epidermal junction is less and less effective at anchoring keratinocytes which means they can’t proliferate and differentiate, leading to a less effective epidermis.
Anti-aging active
Due to its ability to promote epidermal growth and keratinocyte attachment to basement membrane components, the team conclude that the apple pectin oligogalacturonides can be presented as a new anti-aging active.
In addition, the study highlights that the compound can be used to improve in vitro reconstructed skin if added to the culture medium used when preparing samples.
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00655.x
Oligogalacturonides improve tissue organisation of in vitro reconstructed skin
C Lebreton-decoster, P. Rousselle, C. Laperdrix, C. Lubrano, J-R Robin, B Coulomb