“The workshop is suitable for anyone who wants to get a broad appreciation of the availability of natural emulsifiers and surfactants and the issues surrounding their use," Beerling told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com.
“I will also try and define what natural means in this context. The workshop does not require a technical background to participate and is suitable for cosmetic manufacturers, product developers & formulators, marketers, raw material and ingredient companies.”
In particular the workshop will be focusing on viable formulation alternatives to PEGs, SLS/SLES as part of the growing trend to move away from these substances and use natural and organic replacements.
Beerling says that the workshop will focus on discussing how media and consumer pressure triggered by activist groups is helping to fuel this phenomenon, as well as how natural and organic standards are triggering the need to reformulate.
“Where practical I will look at identifying most – if not all – of the new ingredients in these categories and I will add any red-hot news I pick up at the show,” Beerling explained.
“Interesting materials include the Dermorganics products from Dr Straetmans and Oleosome technology from Botaneco, where we are starting to get emulsifiers based on a partially organic base, which can count towards the overall organic content of a product.”
The workshop will also cover what types of chemical processes are accepted by the major worldwide standards and what is excluded, while also focusing on differences and disagreements within the area.
The challenges that are thrown up by natural and organic standards will also be investigated further with a section highlighting which different companies can supply emulsifiers and surfactants, using the Ecocert Greenlife standard as an example.
Summing up with some advice about this area of formulation, Beerling said: “I would say make sure you identify what type of texture, viscosity and skin feel you are trying to achieve and select your ingredients appropriately and then talk to the experts who can tell you how best to work with these materials.”
Judi Beerling will be leading the Formulation Workshop on Emulsifiers & Surfactants: The Natural Options at in-cosmetics Milan on 31 March from 09.30 – 13.00.