The new ingredient, Caspaline 14, is a synthetic peptide that has been designed to increase the expression of the enzyme Caspase 14.
Although the mechanism is not totally clear, Caspase 14 has been linked to the skin softness and suppleness, and is only present in terrestrial mammals and not birds and mammals, the marketing director for skin care at ISP, Joel Mantelin told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com.
In addition, further research in mice suggests that the enzyme plays a role in the ability of the skin to act as a barrier against UV radiation – UVB-mediated damage was much higher in mice without caspase 14, Mantelin said.
Reinforce the barrier function
“The idea behind ISP’s new product [caspaline 14] was to reinforce the barrier function and the UV filtering capacity of the epidermis,” he said.
According to the company, ex vivo tests suggested that caspaline 14 rapidly enhances the expression of the enzyme caspase 14, within the first 24 hours.
In addition, the ingredient also enhanced the expression of filaggrin, which the company explains is active in the differentiation of the cells in epidermis, as well as helping to degrade the filaggrin into its constituent parts that make up the natural moisturising factor (NMF) of the skin.
A further ex vivo test suggested the ability of the ingredient to protect against damage from UVB radiation, leading the company to perform an in vivo test on a small number of volunteers.
In vivo test
The in vivo study looked at two endpoints: the skin integrity following UV radiation and transepidermal water loss.
In a two week study using twelve volunteers, where the product or placebo was applied twice a day, the number of sunburn cells following full spectrum UV radiation was measured.
Study results showed there were 39 per cent fewer sunburn cells visible in the skin area treated with the Caspaline 14-containing product than the area treated with the placebo. In addition, transepidermal water loss was reduced by 66 per cent in the treated areas, Mantelin added.
According to ISP, the ingredient has been developed for use in anti-ageing products, formulations designed to preserve the skin’s integrity from UV damage, as well as formulations for fair or sun sensitive skin.