According to the company, which was showcasing the ingredients at the recent Suppliers Day in New Jersey, the range was prompted by perceived health risks associated with nanoparticles among consumers.
The in-organic filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) are often used in formulations in the nano range as this increases their spreadability and decreases the white hue left on the skin after application.
Although a number of studies have concluded that in healthy skin these tiny particles are unlikely to cross the skin barrier and enter the system, concern still remains in certain circles over the potential toxicity of the ingredients.
In response to this demand, New Jersey, US-headquartered Kobo products claims to have developed a range of non-nano UV filters that couple good protection with little or no whiteness.
Encapsulated filter
Principal research scientist with the company, Edward M. Bartholomey, explained that the individual mineral particles are encapsulated to bring them out of the nano-range.
“They are encapsulated in nylon 12 micro spheres which means they are larger than 100nm,” he told CosmeticsDesign.com USA. Although no internationally accepted definition exists as yet for a nanoparticle, Bartholomey said it was likely to be a particle with dimensions of under 100nm.
Despite this larger size, Bartholomey explained that if the correct oil-based solvent was used, transparency on the skin can be achieved.
However, the protection offered by the filters is less than their nano counterparts, he said.
In test formulations, where the company combined the non-nano titanium dioxide at a 10 percent concentration with a number of organic filters, SPFs of the high 40s can be reached with UVA protection of around 20.
However, if the non-nano organic filters were to be used on their own at a similar concentration the protection would be between SPF 10-15, according to Bartholomey; although, he said concentrations could be increased.
The INCI names for the filters are Nylon-12 and titanium dioxde, and Nylon-12 and zinc oxide.