The ingredient, Retilactyl D, is an extract of black pepper berries and is rich in polysaccharides, glucans and the rhamnogalacturonans.
According to the France-based ingredients supplier, the reticular dermis is an ‘architect’ of the deep dermis, conferring properties of resistance to tensions and traction on the skin.
While not significantly affected by intrinsic ageing, Silab claims that the reticular dermis is prone to photoageing and has designed the Retilactyl D to help mitigate the affects of UV radiation on the reticular fibroblasts.
In vitro tests performed by the company illustrated effects of Retilactyl D on the adhesion capability of the reticular fibroblasts, their capacity to contract and the migration capacity.
Silab claims that 0.5 per cent Retilactyl increased the adhesion capacity of photoaged fibroblasts by 26 per cent, the contractile capacity by 156 per cent and the migration capacity by 20 per cent.
The adhesion of the reticular fibroblasts to collagen is important in maintaining the solidity and strength of the upper layers of the skin, explained a spokesperson for the company.
"We have investigated the influence of UVA irradiation on the capacity of adhesion of reticular fibroblasts to collagen I" the spokesperson told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com.
Furthermore, the ability of the reticular fibroblasts to anchor themselves to the extra cellular matrix and to develop contractile properties is very important to the resistance of the skin, the company explained.
"These contractile properties generate tensile forces that stimulate the organization and retraction of the surrounding collagen fibres indispensable for the continuous remodelling of the ECM. This process is necessary for generation of the resistant properties of the skin," the spokesperson added.
The company also performed in vivo tests on the ingredient which it said help reduce facial ptosis or sagging, as well as improving skin firmness in photoaged skin.
After 56 days of twice daily application of a Retilactyl D 3 per cent formula, skin firmness was improved by 8.5 per cent and tone by 12.3 per cent in volunteers. The studies suggest that treatment with the ingredient can help the skin of photoaged subjects become more similar to that of the non-photoaged control group, according to the company.
In addition, Silab asked volunteers what they felt about the treatment and 90 per cent considered that the formula with Retilacytl D had a firming effect.
Targeting different layers of the dermis
The ingredient was launched by the company at the recent in-cosmetics show in Paris. Its release is related to the 2008 launch of another anti-ageing ingredient Papilactyl D.
Papilactyl D focused on the papillary dermis; an area of the upper dermis that the research had illustrated played a key role in maintaining the elastic properties of the skin.
Rich in oligosaccharides derived from the tiger nut, the ingredient increases the deformability, elasticity and strength of the skin, Silab said at the ingredient’s launch.