Sederma launches new ingredient to boost skin’s natural moisturising ability

Regulating the genes to help the skin create its own natural moisture is the claim of Sederma’s new ingredient for dry skin applications.

The France-based ingredients supplier claims that Revidrate acts on multiple genes involved in the synthesis of the skin’s Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) and the production of glycerol.

According to the company, Revidrate stimulates two enzymes, caspase-14 and filiggrinase, involved in the metabolism of filaggrin.

In vitro results from the company show that with the addition of Revidrate at 3 per cent the levels of filaggrinase and caspase-14 are increased by 304 per cent and 229 per cent respectively.

Filaggrin – pre cursor to NMF

Both enzymes are involved in the treatment of filaggrin, which is a precursor of NMF, explained a spokesperson from the company.

Further in vitro tests illustrated that Revidrate increased the synthesis of NMF by 34.8 per cent, as well as glycerol by 327 per cent.

This increase of NMF and intracellular glycerol can help reinforce the corneocyte envelope and stimulate the synthesis of intercellular lipids, ceramides and cholesterol. This ensures the skin barrier function, Sederma claims.

Revidrate has been designed to mimic the effects of a signalling lipid sphingosine-1-phosphate (S1P) - a bioactive phospholipid known to pay a role in epidermis maturation and filaggrinase stimulation.