According to Nica Lewis, director of Beauty Innovation at market research company Mintel, this small niche category has evolved quickly in Europe, where it is almost entirely confined to luxury products.
“New launches highlight specific active ingredients that help protect the skin against the naturally-occurring sugar-related chemical reaction that weakens its support system, damages collagen and contributes to skin ageing,” Lewis said.
Glycation occurs when the naturally occurring sugar molecules in the skin bond to a protein or lipid molecule without the controlling action of an enzyme.
The resulting glycation process impairs the functioning of biomolecules, which in skin serves to weaken the structure at a cellular level, leading to a less firm surface and a greater tendency towards wrinkling.
Glycation as a skin care issue evolved in the US
Although glycation as a skin care issue has taken off in Europe, it was first identified by US cosmeceutical provider Dr. Brandt, which was established by celebrity dermatologist Dr. Frederic Brandt.
Dr. Brandt published a book, named 10 Mintutes, 10 years, which looks at ways to target avdvanced skin glycation, and in turn he also launched a Lineless Anti-Glycation Serum in March 2007 – a product that Nica Lewis believes was ground breaking for the niche.
A look at Mintel’s Global New Product Database (GNPD) reveals how Dr. Brandt’s glycation skin care launch has given way to a number of premium products in Europe that incorporate anti-glycation claims and ingredients.
Glycation according to user age
Ark Age Awares is a new skin care brand doing just this, stating that its range provides protection against glycation and inflammation . The brand claims to target glycation according to the age of the skin, because glycation relates to age dependent hormone levels.
Ark’s Phytohormone SkinResponse Serum is based on sweet almond oil, oat kernel and algae and claims to diminish glycation-related symptoms such as dullness, loss of elasticity and uneven skin colour and tone.
Qiriness Carresse Temps is a French brand that has launched Total Anti-Age Regenerating Cream, which targets glycation-related skin problems using calcium and amino acids to target the skin structure and hyaluronic acid, algae extract and lupine proteins to help enhance the skin metabolism.
Another French brand, La Roche-Posay has launched a new anti-ageing skin care range Derm Aox, which claims to target both glycation and skin oxidation, and highlights Carnosine as a molecule that helps to reduce symptoms related to the glycation process in skin.
Winter-time face cream
Dr Pierre Ricaud, which is also a French brand but sold only through direct sales channels, has launched its Winter Radiance High Nutrition Omega Magnesium C+ Cream, which is a winter-time face cream.
The product is formulated with an Anti-Age Nutrition Intelligence System consisting of omega oil, magnesium, vitamin C, and Vitalistine, which is an active technology that targets both anti-glycation and anti-oxidant properties.
Iconic French brand Chanel has also got in on the act, launching its Precision Ultra Correction Line Repair range, which claims to address the effect of glycation on wrinkles, caused when collagen becomes more rigid and eventually collapses.
Lewis believes that these product launches underline how the anti-glycation claim has been incorporated into a range of quite different products with versatility and believes the concept offers new opportunities.
“They offer new language for collagen firming skin care and an opportunity to reach more mature consumer or post-menopausal women, while also being targeted seasonally to offer stronger winter-time protection,” she said.