According to the France-based active division of chemicals provider Cognis, the new ingredient Aqu’activ is designed to help strengthen the skin and improve its natural moisturising function by maintaining the epidermal homeostasis.
Communications Manager for the company Anne-Laurie Rodrigues explained how the ingredient has two components that work together to improve skin moisturisation and elasticity.
The calcium component in the ingredient helps enhance keratinocyte differentiation, helps improve the synthesis of intercellular lipids and increases the number of tight junction proteins that play a role in connecting neighbouring cells, she said.
In addition, a further component helps inhibit the enzyme ceramidase, thus helping to stop the degradation of ceramides (lipid molecules), Rodrigues told CosmeticsDesign.
This ability to preserve the functions of the stratum corneum and the optimal differentiation of the epidermis, helps restore skin moisturisation and elasticity for optimal comfort, according to the company.
Wellness trend
In addition to in vitro studies that support the mechanism of action, the company also referenced an in vivo clinical study that showed an improvement in moisturising rate and skin elasticity after 14 days of treatment with the Aqu’activ containing emulsion compared to the placebo.
The ingredients manufacturer is positioning the product as part of the wellness trend that can help fight against wind, sun and soap along with other stressful environmental conditions that might alter the skin’s ability to protect itself.
“With all the different types of stress of modern life attacking our skin, this may be the best way to make use of the little time we have for every day skincare,” Rodrigues said.
Aqu’activ has been designed for use in moisturising products, body firming lotions and anti-ageing formulations.