The extract from the seaweed Alaria esculenta, found off the coast of Northern France, has been developed by France-based company BiotechMarine.
Anti-aging seaweed
Due to its high concentrations of fatty acids, anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activity, the extract (Kalpariane) is being positioned as an anti-ageing ingredient with skin firming properties.
The presence of omega 3 and omega 6 help reinforce the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier, according to the company, whilst it protects against collagen and elastin degradation.
In addition, the extract has good free radical scavenging activity therefore helping to protect the skin from both intrinsic and environmental damage.
However, what is particularly interesting is the extract's ability to stimulate sirtuin acitivity, John Darbyshire from the company’s UK distributor Adina Cosmetics told CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com.
Sirtuins: the secret to eternal youth?
Sirtuins are proteins that regulate multiple genes responsible for aspects of cell metabolism, repair and reproduction.
For this reason research into how their activity can be upregulated is a hot topic in the anti-ageing sector and a number of cosmetics companies are targeting the area.
According to BiotechMarine the Kalpariane extract can delay the duplicative phase of DNA replication in ageing cells, leaving more time for other cell functions such as DNA repair. This allows for a healthier replication and keeps the cell younger for longer, the company explained.
Another of the leading players in this area is International Specialty Products and its active ingredients division Vincience.
Earlier this year, at the In-Cosmetics trade show in Amsterdam, the company showcased its sirtuin activating ingredient Orsirtine.
According to ISP the rice extract decreases cell ageing in vitro, extends the longevity of aged keratinocytes and fibroblasts.
In addition, the company claims that Orsirtine improves skin protection by protecting the DNA from UV and oxidative damage.