Silab launches anti-dandruff pomegranate ingredient

France-based cosmetics solutions provider Silab has launched an anti-dandruff ingredient produced from pomegranate peel, capitalising in on the growing trend for natural plant, vegetable and fruit exracts.

Adandrine contains butylenes glycol, triethanlamine and punica granaturm - an extract of pomegranate, that is claimed to control the microbial proliferation malassezia furfur that is thought to create the dry scalp conditions that can lead to dandruff.

As well as malassezia furfur, other conditions that are said to exacerbate dandruff are said to be aggressive climates, nervousness, diet and pollution. All of these contributing factors can make dandruff difficult to treat, but Silab says it believes that all of these factors can contribute to the presence of the fungus.

As well as treating the fungus, the ingredient is said to restore the balance of the epidermal differentiation process. This is achieved by stimulating the synthesis of involucrin, a process that allows the maturation of the strateum corneum, the outer layer of the epidermis skin layer.

Application of the ingredient to the outer skin layer is said to result in the alteration of the integrity and operation of the functional barrier being disrupted, helping to slow the rate of dandruff.

According to the company, the pomegranate tree is known in the Middle East for its emollient and anti-inflammatory-aiding fruits. Silab researchers said they saw the potential benefit of the fruit to the scalp and thus created the anti-dandruff ingredient.

Pomegranate has featured in a number of cosmetic products in recent years, and is currently being marketed by UK company Seatons as an ingredient to help fight signs of ageing.

The company says that trials using a formulation containing 4 per cent of the ingredient in a shampoo against a placebo proved that the treatment showed a marked difference during one month when the product was used every two days.

The company conducted trials where 4% of the product was formulated in a shampoo vs. a placebo. After sampling the scalp with D-squames before and after one month of treatment every two days, the company found the ingredient to reduce the desquamation index.

Last year the company launched Heliomoduline, an ingredient that is said to repair DNA through the stimulation of proteins that naturally exist in the skin's dermal layer. It is aiming the ingredient at both manufacturers of skin care and anti-ageing products.