Lessonia uses the peel from cocoa beans and claims to be one of the very few manufacturers in Europe with the capabilities to process the material into a powder for cosmetics applications.
The company was only started two years ago, focusing on the processing of seaweed into powder form for cosmetics ingredients. It is located in Brittany, North-western France, a prime location for sourcing seaweed.
However, its expertise in crushing plant-based products has bought about a rapidly increasing customer base which has seen it expand into new areas. Last year the company had a €1 million turnover, of which 50 per cent was derived from overseas sales, but that is expected to at least double during the course of the current financial year, which ends next July.
The company's evolution has seen it break into the processing of grape and citrus peel, as well as a range of other plant-based products.
"Demand for cocoa-based ingredients was sparked off by a major cosmetics company approaching us for a cocoa-based exfoliator ingredient," said Christophe Wenckler, company manager. "In answer to this we have developed a range of cocoa-based exfoliators as well as the addition of a range of products that are specially designed for use by professionals in spa resorts. We are now picking up on demand from other cosmetics companies for these types of ingredients and are expecting production to increase steadily as a result."
To produce the powdered cocoa peel ingredient, Lessonia micronises the cocoa peel. The advantage of using peel is that it fat-free and consequently has a much higher nutrient and mineral conents. It contains many properties that are sought after in beauty and cosmetic treatments, including caffeine, polyphenols and magnesium.
After it has been micronised, the cocoa peel is turned into a very fine powder, which the company says ensures the release of the active substances and also allows soft and smooth textures in products.
"Any cosmetic product formulated with the cocoa powder possesses all the properties associated with cocoa butter based products," said Wenckler. "This includes the sweet smell of cocoa and the brown colouring."
Currently the company provides three cocoa exfoliator agents for cosmetic applications - Cocoa Exfoliator, 2000, 1000 and 500 - each having varying degrees of scrubbing efficacy.
The herbal spa line of finished cocoa-based products includes a fizzing chocolate herbal pack, heating cocoa herbalpack and a cocoa gel for body wraps.