Pentapharm introduces new actives at InCosmetics 2004

During InCosmetics 2004 in Milan last week, Pentapharm - a Swiss supplier of naturally derived active ingredients - presented its new anti-ageing products. Its Pepha-nutrix and Pepha-tight actives are claimed to help strengthen the skin by replacing essential nutrients to reduce the signs of ageing, writes Claire Johnston.

"The skin's radiance and tone diminishes over time, and as a result of oxidative stress and damaged collagen fibres, it often loses its elasticity and starts to sag. Pentapharm can slow the ageing process by supplying actives to revitalise the skin, helping it recover firmness, tone, radiance and smoothness," head of Pentapharm's R&D Thomas Schreier told CosmeticsDesign.com at the InCosmetics exhibition in Milan last week.

The efficacy of Pepha-nutrix and Pepha-tight have both been verified by the company's in-vivo testing. Pepha-nutrix - rich in essential nutrients such as amino acids, minerals and vitamins - is claimed by Pentapharm to supply the skin with all necessary constituents to maintain and restore a youthful appearance.

The study on Pepha-nutrix showed that it significantly increased skin tone by 26 per cent, skin elasticity by 22 per cent, as well as exhibiting a restructuring effect to show a significant increase in skin thickness after eight weeks, compared to placebo. The tests also showed that the active has the capability to stimulate collagen synthesis.

On the other hand, Pepha-tight was shown to protect human fibroblasts from oxidative stress, simultaneously increasing the formation of collagen-I. The in-vivo tests demonstrated the perceptible instant tightening effect of the active on the skin and its ability to strengthen connective tissue.

"Pepha-tight is a highly purified biotechnologically produced extract from the microalgae Nannochloropsis oculata combined with a well balanced fraction of polysaccharides. Special fermentation technology and optimal growth conditions ensure the high quality and pureness of the algae extract," said Schreier.Pepha-nutrix and Pepha-tight have been formulated for cosmetic applications, such as youth prolonging and anti-ageing formulations and skin tightening applications.

The recommended concentration of Pepha-nutrix and Pepha-tight is two-four per cent and two-five per cent respectively.

"Whereas in its beginnings, Pentapharm used classical extraction methods of animal and plant derived feed stocks for its products, today we utilise the most modern production techniques emanating from biotechnology and organic synthesis. Pentapharm's research strategies are being continually focused on the development of highly innovative active ingredients," said Schreier.

Pentapharm produces active ingredients for the pharmaceutical, diagnostic and cosmetic industry. Its main competencies are the extraction of active ingredients from natural sources, the purification and characterisation of snake venom enzymes, the synthesis of small peptides and peptide-like substances and the biotechnological manufacturing of active ingredients.